Team Knucklehead.......turning pages........Hobbit Book (TR)

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Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 14, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
First time I've ever driven up Tioga...in a go cart! Actually, it was Doug's green VW Bug, but DANG, after spending so much time in my pick-up, that Bug has ya sittin' about knee high to any deer on the road! Felt like I had to chalk up my butt cheeks!

Got us to God's country in style though.....and what an incredible day it was in the Meadows today! Lots of odd, high clouds streaming out of the southeast, a good wind swirling around, making for a very alpine feel out on the stone!

Doug is working up to longer days on the rock, so the choice of the amazing Hobbit Book was a good one. For good measure, we mixed in a fun, 4 pitch approach route called Euro Trash, that provides a fine diretissima to the Book.

That approach trail to the base of Drug Dome NEVER gets old! So beautiful in there, and the wildflowers and skunk cabbage still think it's spring! Incredible amounts of water still courses down from above, adding to the pureness of that place. Tuolumne simply makes my heart SING!

Reaching the base of the wall, we were greeted by 12' of snow! We started the route at the 3rd bolt! Pretty awesome to see that much snow this late in the summer!



These 4 pitches are really fun! Low angle climbing up a series of steps on positive knobs, with PLENTY of bolts, keep things VERY mellow.


The 4th, and last, pitch of this line is a bit more head's up. A shallow crack system takes some nice, small gear placements after the initial couple of bolts, then a short, steep crux section is encountered.


Not sure what the guide book says on this bit, but climbing it in FiveTennies was a bit spicy! I thought perhaps two moves of awkward 10a. Fortunately, this section is protected once again by nice bolts. After this crux, it's a 60 foot romp to the end of the pitch, and the start of the 4th class ramp to the base of the Book.

We stopped on the ramp for a bite to eat, and to watch the weather for a few minutes. The clouds seemed pretty darn high and thin, though the wind had the feel of an approaching thunderstorm. We were convinced it was a benign system that would only keep things a bit on the cool side, so I stormed up pitch 1.

Here's a series of shots of Doug following the 1st....


Doug grabbed the rack and launched up pitch 2


I got the fun, run-out face pitch (Doug forgot his camera today) which has got to be one of the best pitches in the realm! SO MUCH FUN! Where the face meets the crack again, I encountered a severely welded, old school, straight shaft friend. I could just imagine some wickedly scared leader in desperate want of protection, ramming that puppy home! I backed it up, then ran up to the next belay, setting up to get some grand photos of Doug not only following this pitch, but leading off on the 4th.


After musing for a few minutes at the belay on how that 3rd pitch might just be the funnest 5.7 pitch in the realm, Doug cast off up the final lead, and I was in perfect position to get the following series of beauty shots....


In short order, Doug was around the corner and out of sight. Within minutes, I joined him on the summit for our first taste of sunshine on the route, with plenty of wind as well!



All in all, we had a PERFECT day! The approach took us 30 minutes, and we did all 8 pitches in 3 1/2 hours, moving at a nice, casual pace.

Doug continues to climb VERY well, placing great pro, and being super motivated. He did take one fall.....ON THE TRAIL DOWN, ABOUT 200 YARDS FROM THE CAR! DOH!!!!!!!!! I heard him fall in a heap behind me when a stone rolled under his foot, and he ended up with a nasty bit of rock rash on his left shin. DOH! DOH!

I put him on belay the rest of the way. :)

Above all I have to say...team Knucklehead abides......and things are GOOD!

We'll be gettin' back out........SOON!

Cheers,
DR



ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Aug 14, 2011 - 10:53pm PT
freeeking Awesome! Dean and Doug you guys are incredible, hey Dean I'm coming up this week, come on up to Junction CG anytime Thursday till Monday and I'll bring a bottle of red, I owe you buddy and bring Doug with you
Peace


Edit: Yerian took a Killer header a couple weeks ago, I'd rate it 9.5/10. I watched his foot catch a root, head first into the dirt,but at the last second, he instinctively rolled onto his shoulder and rolled with it, finished with a perfect mount onto his feet, and continued to walk as though nothing had happened. OLD SCHOOL fer sure!
rhyang

climber
SJC
Aug 14, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
So happy to see Doug climbing again !!

(the approach route is called Euro Trash)
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Aug 14, 2011 - 10:55pm PT
Nice timing on yer TR, Dean. I tend to wander, these days. Too much 'Tardiness fer me. Feck all those bastids....
Anyfrekin' how, Awesome TR, man. 12 Feet, indeed! That is amazing, we're halfway through August. Diggin' yer pics...Super!!8!!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2011 - 11:11pm PT
Thanks for the reminder rhyang...I edited that in above!

Ron, I'll do my best to get up there! Doug's not drinking any alcohol with the myriad meds he's on....I'll take his share though! :)

Cheers,
D
eKat

Trad climber
RuralFrikkenMontana
Aug 14, 2011 - 11:21pm PT
Ahhhhhhhhh. . . such fine memories!

TFPU!
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Aug 14, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
EuroTrash in approach shoes?
Now that's scary.
Fantastic route. well done!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Aug 14, 2011 - 11:37pm PT
MmmmwwaaaahhhhhHH!!!!!!!

Awesome!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
High Traverse, actually approach shoes were perfect for the whole route today....having comfy feet sure makes the route all the more enjoyable!
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Aug 14, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
I'll bring a good bottle and offer Doug what ever his choice is and good company as well!
Peace
Brian

climber
California
Aug 14, 2011 - 11:57pm PT
Great shots of Doug on the final pitch. Glad to see you guys made it up there. Looks like a great day out.

Brian
Macronut

Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
Aug 15, 2011 - 12:33am PT
Inspiring! Looked like a great alpine day. Guide tennies that is impressive. I can't get my partner to trust me in them. I'll have him read this. Thanks for sharing.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2011 - 12:54am PT
I find that climbing in the Guide Tennies really makes ya concentrate on ideal footwork. Lots of dividends in that!
Captain...or Skully

climber
or some such
Aug 15, 2011 - 12:56am PT
Word. Diggin' it, Dean.
pc

climber
Aug 15, 2011 - 01:53am PT
Heart warming TR. Nice going you two.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2011 - 10:57am PT
Pretty interesting stuff, climbing with a stroke patient, and wondering how things would be should he have another event while on a climb.

Especially when Doug is leading, I find myself running rescue techniques over and over in my mind. I'm carrying my radio while climbing with him, so I could talk directly to YOSAR should we need assistance.

Tbe ONLY sign of his stroke is the memory lapses....certain things he just can't remember the names of, like yesterday when he said he got in a good hex while on lead.....it was a Camalot.

For all he's been through, it is COMPLETELY amazing how well he has recovered. And I told him yesterday, not remembering doing certain climbs before has it's benefits.....it will ALL be new to him....just like starting over! Who wouldn't mind doing every route you've done in Tuolumne over again, and feeling like it was a first ascent???
Silver

Big Wall climber
Nor Nev
Aug 15, 2011 - 03:23pm PT
Who wouldn't mind doing every route you've done in Tuolumne over again, and feeling like it was a first ascent???

There are a couple that come to mind that I would never want to do again unless those rust spots have some fresh hardware filling the old holes.

In fact I need to chalk my ass crack and dry my hands thinking back to a few that left me wondering how in the hell I am still walking and thank god that knob didn't break thoughts.

Cool stuff Dean glad you and Doug are getting out and having fun.
Carolyn C

Trad climber
the long, long trailer
Aug 15, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
Very, very nice!! Interesting how Doug digs into the old memories...putting in a hex. I remain amazed at his incredible recovery. Go Team Knucklehead.
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Aug 15, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
Dean,

sweet TR. thx

any particular reason why ya did the route in approach shoes?
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Aug 15, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
Fantastic TR. Could you post a link to it in the Trip Reports section so it doesn't get buried/lost in the forum.

Was this Saturday? If so we were probably on the summit of Fairview when you took that pic!
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