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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
Sonic
Trad climber
Central Coast, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 2, 2011 - 12:01am PT
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I've been looking to explore up in the Trinity Alps this summer and am having a hard time finding beta. Most of the climbs seem word of mouth. I was wondering if anyone knew of or knows someone who has good information for the area (I know its really big).
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Dick Erb
climber
June Lake, CA
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Bump. That is a place I have always wondered about.
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john bald
climber
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Steve Mackey is the guy with the beta. Good luck finding him.
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Petch
Gym climber
knapsack crack
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Canyon Creek probably has the highest concentration and easiest approach(8 miles). Stone House just before the first lake has the classic 5.10 dihedral. We also climbed a spire up and left(Sinbads lipstick). The west face of Sawtooth peak has a good four pitch 5.10 Guaranteed Buzz. The Sheer Wall down and left of Sawtooth has a good 5.10 thin crack(Sheer power). The end of the canyon has wedding cake and has a good fourth/easy fifth class gully up the middle. Up the Stuart fork trail around Sapphire lake has good craggin, and beyond at mirror lake looks like a good cirque, but a very long approach. Your best bet is go have an adventure and climb what looks good, and it probably will!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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I was in there a bunch when I was a smokejumper. Saw lots of stuff I wanted to return to climb, but the logistics of getting back up there without a parachute have been too much. Like others have said, it's no weekend outing.
Great area.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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i have no real knowledge of the good climbs in the alps, but here are a couple pics to spark the adventure
there are reported climbs on this and easy approach compared to stuff back in canyon creek.
some good spring touring in there too
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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OH, and there NO caves in the Trinity Alps. Absolutely none.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Central Coast, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
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Thanks for the posts. I'm going to ask around Shasta. My girl friends uncle lives in mt Shasta and does a lot of restoration work up there. Tom and his wife Cid if anyone knows them, Tom teaches part-time at the college. Hopefully I can find sone concrete stuff thru him.
Caves would be awesome too, but I know that community is even more exclusive than climbers. I've been thru sOme of the sequoia park caves, amazing chems down there!
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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I hiked up there (not for climbing) a few years ago and saw some decent looking rock.
This appeared to be about a 5 or 6 pitch route. It was in Canyon Creek about 4 hours of hiking away from the trailhead... on the left side for someone hiking out.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Yeah, that looks like bigfoot country.
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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I backpacked and climbed in there several times in the '70s (teenager). I did Sawtooth Peak up Canyon Creek, and out of the Carter Ranch area, I was on the Mazama first ascent of the east face of the Little Matterhorn, a beautiful 1,000-foot rock climb. The summit rappel bolts might even still be there! Also in that area is Josephine Lake, a mile or two hike above Carter Ranch Lodge. Above this lake are alpine ridges with challenging rock routes. The ridgline above Josephine Lake divides the Josephine Lake drainage on the east, from Canyon Creek on the west. And elswhere in this area is a ridge called the Chessmen, with many spires along the ridge, one of which I led as another Mazama first ascent rock climb. Beautiful, solid granite, like much of the high Sierra, only lower in elevation. And this Carter Ranch area you can drive into (long, all-weather road, about 20 miles or so, if I remember correctly). On the faces on either side of the ridges, you can find climbing anywhere from 5.easy to 5.hard. Lots to choose from.
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Nibs
Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
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We have scrambled a bunch over the years but have only hauled gear in a couple of times up Canyon Creek. As mentioned, Canyon Creek has the highest concentration of good granite, but also the most visitors.
Nice shot from T-rock down Poison Canyon above - splitclimber's second photo.
DMT - would love to see some photos of your trip to Ycatapom even though your description sounds about right regarding the quality of the climbing (5.7 is great with us if it was clean...perhaps add Ycatapom photos to the choss thread).
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Sonic
Trad climber
Central Coast, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
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im excited to get back there!
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DJS
Trad climber
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Sawtooth peak on the south eastern side.
Climbs are kept secret there for a reason. : )
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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I'm not sure what that reason would be .. when I've gone backpacking and scrambling up there it's at least 6-7 hours drive from the bay area. You'd have to hump gear a long way in. Plus, during the summer it gets pretty hot because of the lower elevation. I've noticed that the thunderstorms move in pretty fast, too.
To the average gym rat, even Castle Crags climbing is relatively obscure. People have said to my face, "why would you want to go all the way up there ?" Lol.
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troutrtrout
Trad climber
Samon Muntains, CA
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Does anyone have any beta for the thumb? I am planning a trip to explore some routes on the south side. I have climbed in the alps for 10 years, and never climbed the thumb.
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mister611
Gym climber
Between 511 and 711
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You might also want to consider the amount of growing that takes place in that region- just saying.
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