dave
climber
Earth
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
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O.K.,well I have to spew a little bit for a good friend of mine whom I've shared numerous adventures with on El Cap and putting up routes in the Sierra and basic goofing off with over the last 11 years.
Jason Lakey is a good guy who really gets after it, and of late has been on a rage here on the East Side of the sierra.
Recently he established a new route in Rock Creek just left of the old school mega-classic, 'the gong show roof'. It took him 11 tries to finally send, he also shared some efforts with another local hard guy who gave it 8 tries without success(this guy had previously sent the Grand Illusion at Sugar Loaf, and Cosmic Debris in YV) It is called 'The Bong Show Roof' aka. 'The Coach Crack'.
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1515949171601
We call him the Coach, cuz he trains like a mad man and will always make us do a little something extra when out for a day at the crags, like push ups or sit ups and pull ups or maybe just a short run, of course after he has made sure we punished our selves climbing till dark.
He currently holds the speed record for the ascent of 'The Mountaineers Route' on Whitney at 3:10:07 car to car, and has for near 10 years!!
Well I think he got another good one in yesterday!
Car to Car free solo, 1) Keeler Needle .10c
2) E. Face, Mt. Whitney .7
3) E. Buttress, Mt. Whitney .7
4) Mithral Dihedral, Mt. Russell .10a
5) Fish Hook Arete, Mt. Russell .8
After the Fish hook arete he desendes the East Ridge of Russel back to the Russell/ Carilion (sp) col, making for a nice round trip loop to loop of the zone.
He had one assist when he didn't want to wear a camel back on Keller Needle, so his buddy carried it up to the base of the Moutaineers Route on Whitney, so he could grab it on his descent without having to return to the base of the Needle.
All this in around 16:30 hours, give or take a min.
Not to mention he is a full time nursing school student sticking straight A's, while commuting from Bishop to Lancaster, Ca.
AND he pays for his own shoes!
Nice work Bud!!
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Aug 28, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
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I can't mentally grasp that amount of badassedness. It's like there is some fore-shortening effect when looking up from my little vantage point.
Edit: Just watched the video, pretty incredible. Worth logging in to facebook to see it.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Aug 28, 2010 - 03:27pm PT
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Wow. I remember looking at that line a long time ago when I was on Gong Show. It looked way stout!
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Aug 28, 2010 - 03:48pm PT
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KILLER!!!
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Jack Burns
climber
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Aug 28, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
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I think it is worth mentioning Jason's insane hackey sack skills as well.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Aug 28, 2010 - 04:55pm PT
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Proud job all around!
The Coach Crack looks nice. Good score on that one.
The High Sierra feats are amazing. He must be one fit guy.
Keep 'em coming!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Aug 28, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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Amazing!
Nice video too!
2 points off for putting a bolt at the lip.....
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tbones
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 28, 2010 - 05:08pm PT
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Strong work in the video!!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 28, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
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Total Control.
Looked like he was traversing.
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The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
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Aug 28, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
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Outstanding display of power, control and technique.
Looks way hard...
Nice work!
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Aug 28, 2010 - 05:51pm PT
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WOW!! wow.
Just goes ta sho ya where inspiration, and motivation together will lead you...
YAAAAA!!
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Dave's Wife
Trad climber
from the earth too
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Aug 30, 2010 - 05:30pm PT
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Great job Coach!!! Super impressive!!!
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eliot carlsen
Social climber
San Diego
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Aug 30, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
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Woah, that's some sick alpine crushery!! great video too
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beef supreme
climber
the west
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Aug 30, 2010 - 09:24pm PT
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BAMF
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Sandy
climber
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Aug 31, 2010 - 07:44pm PT
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That roof crack looks incredible... the sierra linkups are far beyond anything I can imagine too.... The Sig Saur photo is classic, made me seek that route out when i first saw it.
But this is definitely what impresses me the most:
"Not to mention he is a full time nursing school student sticking straight A's, while commuting from Bishop to Lancaster, Ca."
Face it, if you're a bum, it goes without saying you oughta climb sick hard. Sounds like this guy's keeping a lot more plates spinning than most of us.
NICE, dude.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 31, 2010 - 08:10pm PT
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What day did the Bong show go up? Em and I may have witnessed the last part of the FA, thinking it was something else....
edit; cool video, I beat we watched one of the other days before the free ascent, we were in the car, coming from Patricia bowl. Nice Work!
Is that Coyne's, jack?
Further edit, I believe the ascent we saw was on Wednesday the 11th, just before sundown...
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Aug 31, 2010 - 09:31pm PT
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A madman for sure......very inspiring.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sounds cool. Too bad the video is on Facebook, I'd love to see it.
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JMC
climber
oilfields of Sumatra
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ultramegabadass! The Whitney C-C and Whitney/Russell linkup times are absolutely freakin sick. Sick sick sick sick sick. [cue up Slipknot NOW.] I have been breaking down the splits on that in my head and I can't make sense of it - those times are alien. [fade into Pennywise].
Funny how you remember & restate events like that down to the second: 6:02:12 and 30:04:18 are personal event times that I will probably burble out of my mouth long after Alzheimer's has dispatched of the useful bits of my brain.
Thanks for posting up.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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3:10:07 car to car on Mountaineer's route?
You are a dirty fool liar.
I do no not believe you.
That is impossible.
I refuse to let my brain believe that is feasible.
If this were true, all I believe about my own strength and ability and hardness would shatter.
Please go away.
We do not need crazy talk like that on this site.
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