Bridwell's Brave New World Yosemite Ratings Mountain 31 1974

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2010 - 06:51pm PT
Classsic perspective and a proposed comparative letter rating system for 5.10 and 5.11 from Jim Bridwell. This article along with one by Jim in the 1973 Ascent were the first to formally propose four letter grades per number increment in the YDS. Mountain #31 came out in January 1974 and had everybody dreaming on the Nabisco Wall...










The flare that made Phil famous!!!1096 just like the bong that held the whole show visible in the back!













F10

Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
Jul 13, 2010 - 07:24pm PT
That Mountain mag issue had me more psyched than usual,

Good stuff for a teenager
WBraun

climber
Jul 13, 2010 - 08:02pm PT
All that is old sh'it.

The new sh'it is they don't even use a material rope anymore and they can even fly like a bird now.

Step out of the cave and enter the light .....
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 13, 2010 - 08:39pm PT
Werner, my old friend, STFU. This article in its day was actually pretty huge, important and novel even. Thanks Steve, as always!!
11worth

Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
Jul 13, 2010 - 10:26pm PT
I have that issue in front of me right now. Even the ads are good:
Rivendell Mountain Works Bomb Shelter tent, Chouinard/salewa crampons, Chouinard Equipment for Alpinists alpine hammer, all good stuff.
Plus photos of Beverly Johnson and Ellie Hawkins.
An article about the Patagonia ice cap and great photos of Cerro Torre and Fitzroy. What an issue #31 was.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 13, 2010 - 10:50pm PT
Keep digging this stuff up, Steve. Big Phil G. bump.
Thomas

Trad climber
The Tilted World
Jul 14, 2010 - 08:35am PT
Thanks for this bit of history--classic.

Cheers!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2010 - 05:10pm PT
This issue made me want to burl up and get busy! Here's the list, laddie buck!
Larry

Trad climber
Bisbee
Jul 14, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
Why are his hands so white?
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Jul 14, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
They were Pushing It for sure!


Thanks,
Thor
scuffy b

climber
Eastern Salinia
Jul 15, 2010 - 01:37pm PT
Hey, as long as Peter's here (well within a couple days) I've got a
question:
It's about those anchors by Butterballs.
You mentioned that when you climbed Wheat Thin you used those anchors.
I think because you didn't take Wheat Thin seriously (before actually
climbing it) you didn't bother to place anchors at its base, instead
using the ones at the left end of the ledge.
Were those placed after the first ascent of Waverly Wafer?
I am not clear on the sequence of Waver Wafer, Wheat Thin and Butterfingers
temporally.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jul 15, 2010 - 05:24pm PT
Wow! I still have my copy of that issue in my "archives!" (That means I have it but DKWTF!) In the late 1970s and early 80s, that issue became my Bible.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2010 - 06:09pm PT
Eliminating that hanging belay by running the pitches together would be a better way to approach the Nabisco Wall for maximum pump! I wonder if either route gets lead that way?
WBraun

climber
Jul 15, 2010 - 06:20pm PT
Yeah

Bachar and I did it that way once in 2 pitches, although John lead both pitches.

The first pitch he drags the rope to the top of Waverly Wafer and belays me up.

The second pitch he drags the rope to the top of Butterballs and clips a quick draw to the anchor and continues to drag the rope to up to the top of the cliff.
Mimi

climber
Jul 15, 2010 - 07:14pm PT
Am so glad that I finally got to meet and get to know Jim. What a character! Fine ribaldry! So approachable considering his legendary position and a real riot when it comes to late night party discussions. Some would say out of this world.

Those pics of Final Exam remind me of when Pete Noebels and I did the NWF and did the several-inch deep dusty trail the long way around. When we approached the base, gunning for the spring, I was thrilled to find Werner taking the Final Exam (rope solo) for the upteenth time. He was cruising laps. A machine. I was so psyched to see him there before starting such a classic route. It felt comforting thinking that he had cruised up the slabs to spend a fine day on Half Dome to get his little workout while keeping a watchful eye on me. Thanks for being such a cool friend over all these years. How many times have you taken the Exam, WB?

That old shi'te still works fine for me. We can't all fly just yet. I'd go back to 1974 right now if I could. Yikes! I'd be jailbait and climbing. Scary combo. LOL!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2010 - 07:36am PT
Scuffy- The yellow Meyers guide shows this FA sequence.

Waverly Wafer- Jim Bridwell, Barry Bates and Bev Johnson 10/70

Wheat Thin- Peter Haan and Jim Bridwell 8/71

Butterfingers- Jim Bridwell and Charley Jones 8/71

Butterballs- Henry Barber, et al 5/73

Not sure about the order of ascent on the two 8/71 ascents since these were approached from above.

I am not sure what people used to use to get down from Bev's Tower, BITD?!?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2010 - 07:29pm PT
Brave New Bump!
Pate

Trad climber
Sep 15, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
Beautiful shots.

nice bump Steve, I must have missed this one.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jan 24, 2012 - 11:19am PT
Classic, thanks Steve!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2012 - 07:57am PT
Bump in the ratings...
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