Vern Tejas Reclaims Seven Summits Speed Record ! !

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survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 21, 2010 - 10:40am PT

Hell, I didn't even know there was a speed record, but apparently Vern has reclaimed it.

Back in the day, Vern completed the first winter solo ascent of Denali after the Japanese dude disappeared up there, Umura? What was his name?

I know Vern personally, but not really well. He is a really nice guy, and harder than Superman's kneecaps.
He makes most of us look like flabby old men....since many of us resemble that remark!

Anyway, here's the article and congratulations Vern!

Fiddler On The Roof Of North America

Vern Tejas Shatters Seven Summits Record
Climber ascends highest mountain on each continent in 134 days June 2, 2010 (New York) – On May 31, 2010, Vernon Tejas completed a new world speed record of the Seven Summits, summiting the highest mountain on each of the seven continents within a 134-day period. The previous record of 136 days was set in 2008 by Danish climber Henrik Kristiansen.

Following the combined Bass and Messner lists of summits, which includes Carstensz Pyramid in Indonesia, Tejas began his record attempt with Vinson Massif on January 18, 2010. After ascents on Aconcagua, Carstensz Pyramid, Kosciuszko, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus and Everest, Tejas reached the top of the last summit, Mt. McKinley on May 31, 2010.

A renowned mountaineer, Tejas is the only person to have climbed each of the Seven Summits at least nine times, and has completed the Seven Summits twice during a one year period. Pioneered by Dick Bass in the mid-1980s, the Seven Summits challenge is a goal many mountaineers hope to achieve once in their lifetime.

In reflecting on his recent achievement, Tejas noted that records serve two purposes: history and motivation. “It's with great pride that I was able to reclaim the Seven Summits speed record and once again become a small part of the history of the Seven Summits.” As to his motivation, Tejas said “"Because it's there" has, of course, already been cited by George Mallory, one of history's great mountaineers, but these climbs and the high level of commitment they require serve as both a goal and a dream for me. The Seven Summits perfectly captures the challenge I set for myself and I hope that the new record will serve as motivation for others to experience these wonderful mountains.”

Tejas began climbing in the 1970”s, and in 1989 joined Alpine Ascents International, where he is now a Senior Guide. He is best known for the many climbing firsts he has achieved in his long and distinguished career, including the first solo winter ascent of Denali, the first solo ascent of Mt. Vinson, Antarctica’s highest mountain, and the first winter ascent of Mt. Logan, Canada’s highest mountain.

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Jun 21, 2010 - 12:02pm PT

"Shattered" the 136 day record by...2 days.

Seems funny to say the record was "shattered".

I count 8 summits.

Seems like folks still haven't decided which 7 are legit, yet.

Kudos to Vern!

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2010 - 12:18pm PT

Yeah, I thought shattered was a pretty strange choice of words also.

But if a guy like Vern, who has done those peaks as many times as he has, only shaved two days off the record, then possibly it's a little more shattering than it sounds...

Vern is one badass dude, of that I'm certain!

Vern jamming on Vinson.
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=22389585

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2010 - 12:32pm PT

Here's an answer from an interview a couple years ago that puts it into a little better perspective:

What's next for you?

“I am fortunate to hold the record for the number of times anyone has climbed the Seven Summits - eight. Now I want to re-claim my record for the fastest time. Ian McKeever completed all seven in 156 days, beating my record by 30 days. I think I can go back and knock off another round of the Seven Summits in 150 days next season.”

So Vern's original record was 186 days.

Ian cut it to 156.

Henrick cut it to 136.

Vern cut it to 134.

Pretty damn rugged for a 56 year old man. Almost 57, jeebus....

I'm waiting for Donini to chime in with something grouchy.

apogee

climber

Jun 21, 2010 - 12:42pm PT

Vern is a really great guy- I had him as a student on a WFR course a buncha years ago, and he was tons of fun to have around. Whatever the author's miswritings, Vern is one of those persistent climbers who lives the true spirit of mountaineering. Huzzah!

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Jun 21, 2010 - 02:28pm PT

I knew Vern when I lived in AK and can second Survival's
testimony to his humility and humanity.
Nice goin' old man!

Scout 2

Trad climber

Placerville

Jun 21, 2010 - 03:55pm PT

I met Vernon while climbing Denali in 87...
Very nice guy. one incredibly strong Alpinist. and person.
Cheers

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2010 - 06:40pm PT

That's four of us that know or have met Vern.
Thanks guys.

The amount of time he's spent in the mountains the last 25 years is kind of mind boggling if you think about the seven summits 9 times.

Hard core.

Tejas bump!!

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Jun 21, 2010 - 06:45pm PT

An impressive feat, although it may have as much to do with funding, weather, and airline schedules as it does ability.

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2010 - 06:51pm PT

True, but a record couldn't be set period without some serious drive.

I think his physical and mental toughness trumps the other factors, although there may be some luck involved too.

Nobody knows that circuit like Vern.

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2010 - 08:06pm PT

Motivation, schmotivation

I think motivation is the biggest factor, the end.
Yes, you have to have the means, but we have a way of putting together the things we want most.

Vern is a sought after guide. Has been for a long time.

He was never married until recently, doesn't have kids that I know of.

It's a matter of commitment, prioritizing and drive.
I have no idea about sponsors.

I don't think anyone can pretend that he's in it for the money....

Captain...or Skully

Social climber

Aw, Pshaw, you wouldn't even understand....

Jun 21, 2010 - 08:11pm PT

I don't understand this hurrying nonsense, bro.
Relax, breathe. Nice, ain't it?

I don't get records, either, though. Ah, well. Good on him, I guess.

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2010 - 08:46pm PT

AKDOG, I think you're right about the son, now that I think about it, but I also believe that was a girlfriend, not a wife.

Not that it matters much....
http://expeditionnews.blogspot.com/2009/08/q-with-vern-tejas.html

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Jun 21, 2010 - 08:47pm PT

Whut duz Vern do to be able to afford that scheet ?

Yo, gerl, he lives in Alaska and don't have no stinkin' mortgage and eats
bark from the north side of the tree ifn there ain't no Stinkhead to be had.
Prolly livin' larger than most of us wage slaves.

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2010 - 10:00pm PT

No sheet, an' he swims thru broken glass to get to these rigs, neked with snowshoes on, so's he's reddy to start climbin' when he gits there!!

Acer

Big Wall climber

Jun 21, 2010 - 11:12pm PT

That is a lot of climbing and traveling.

7 Summits nine times. Wow!!

What does it take to do a 7 Summit? 100,000?

Fall Guy

climber

Jun 22, 2010 - 12:38am PT

Vern guides for Alpine Ascents International and I believe most of these climbs have been completed while guiding climbs for them. I have bumped into him all over the world. First ran into him on Denali. Ran into him on Vinson. Liked him so much I decided to climb Elbrus with him and most recently ran into him on Everest. You'll never meet a nicer guy. I'll never forget him singing at the top of his lungs at 18,000 plus feet as we neared the top of Elbrus.