Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - May 23, 2010 - 07:18pm PT
|
I have been using these shoes for approaches in the Black Canyon where you are required to carry your approach shoes on the climb. I have size 12 feet and have always dreaded carrying my approach shoes on my harness or trying to stuff them in a small pack. The Five Fingers weigh 7.5 oz. each in size 12, less than half the weight of my other approach shoes. They also have much less volume than conventional footwear, feel sticky on rock and are very comfortable. They also are designed to strengthen your feet.
They take a little time getting used to but I now really like the way they feel. One area where they don't work as well is on hard, steep soil where their lack of edging can be a problem. They seem to be holding up well and this is no surprise since they were designed for running.
Final analysis: They are my approach shoe of choice for climbs where your shoes end up on the climb with you. On other climbs I'll stick with my Scarpa's.
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
May 23, 2010 - 07:33pm PT
|
They were actually designed for watersports.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
|
The ones I have were specifically designed for running.
|
|
perswig
climber
|
|
|
May 23, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
|
Watersports? My dominatrix usually takes her shoes off ... hey, maybe we're doing it wrong!
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
|
|
|
May 23, 2010 - 07:53pm PT
|
Good beta there donini. How do they do on sharp rocks underfoot?
I've had good results with those Sanuk bedroom-slippers- very lightweight, low volume, innocuous in the pack. Also no good on steep hard dirt, and not very sticky on the rock. My goal was always just to survive the approach, when using them in the Black, and then slip them in the pack along my back (cushy!) and forget about them. They would cost me a couple minutes en route to, say, the Scenic cruise, compared with a decent approach shoe, but once at the base I rarely even noticed them.
The 5-Fingers might be even better.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2010 - 07:56pm PT
|
They're pretty good with sharp rocks but I wouldn't jump up and down.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Green Cove slabbage BITD!
|
|
|
May 23, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
|
Have you read 'Born To Run'? I never thought I would find a book about long-distance running hard to put down, but it's actually a well-told sort of detective narrative about a guy tracking down the Tarahumara Indians of Mexico en route to the retro-discovery that running barefoot may be the best thing of all for the human body's design.
Took me 2 days to read. I bet there's some Hard Rock/Leadville 100 types around Ouray who have it. Check it out.
|
|
Slym
Ice climber
East Bay, CA
|
|
|
May 23, 2010 - 08:19pm PT
|
I too suggest born to run.
If you are a runner at all, it'll really make you analyze how you run.
Really interesting.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
|
Pate, with size 12 feet I'll be heel toeing cracks that will make you cry like a baby.
|
|
Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
|
|
|
May 23, 2010 - 08:40pm PT
|
Nice return.
The weak part inherent in this shoe design is, to me, how the heck do you resole them?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2010 - 08:43pm PT
|
I'm just going to use them for approaches that require carrying them on the climb. I guess that with this "approach" they should last quit a long time.
|
|
rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
|
|
|
May 23, 2010 - 09:07pm PT
|
If weight is the issue you can get racing flats that weigh close to half as much as the Vibram FF's. (Asics Pirhana SP 2 weighs 4.2 oz for a size 10.) Made for road running, so might last 15 minutes on the trail...
|
|
KevinQ
Social climber
SLC
|
|
|
May 23, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
|
Donini's right on. They're comfy, lightweight, and do surprisingly well on almost any surface. I got poked in the middle of the foot once by a sharp rock, which was uncomfortable, but nbd. Four stars.
|
|
rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
|
|
|
May 23, 2010 - 09:42pm PT
|
Yeah, Jim gave these things a test drive at my place. He gave them a ringing endorsement.
|
|
Delhi Dog
Trad climber
Good Question...
|
|
|
May 23, 2010 - 09:59pm PT
|
A buddy of mine has been using them now for quite a while running the streets and dirt tracks of Delhi-loves 'em.
Interesting idea as an approach shoe...
DD
|
|
snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
|
|
|
May 24, 2010 - 12:38am PT
|
Just an FYI, but you're feet will sweat like crap because they don't breath. Personally, i'd be afraid of breaking a toe in talus or something.
|
|
BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
|
|
|
May 24, 2010 - 12:44am PT
|
I've had a pair of these for 6 months now and I've used them for approaches, snorkeling, gym climbing, easy trail running, around town, long drives etc. Not only do they feel great on your feet (like going barefoot, but with pro...), but they really help separate and exercise your individual toes. Really good stuff. Mine only show minor wear to date, hopefully they will last a while. Highly recommended!!
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
from the Leastside
|
|
|
May 24, 2010 - 02:19am PT
|
". . . the Tarahumara Indians of Mexico en route to the retro-discovery that running barefoot may be the best thing of all for the human body's design . "
In the I ran in El Portal races (bitd) the local Miwoks (and or Paiutes) all ran barefoot .
|
|
jfs
Trad climber
Upper Leftish
|
|
|
May 24, 2010 - 02:28am PT
|
Thanks for posting donini. I'd been considering picking them up for the exact reasons you mentioned. Might need to give them a try now.
Now if they'll just design some crampons for them so I can use 'em for those early season approaches. ;-)
|
|
slobmonster
Trad climber
OAK (nee NH)
|
|
|
May 24, 2010 - 02:46am PT
|
If I wore those things, I'd want to punch myself in the face.
But that's nothing new.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!