Reed's Erect Have you climbed it

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Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 29, 2010 - 03:45pm PT
Ya I am on a Reed's kick today.

Not talking about Reed's Direct.

Reeds Erect continues up from the top of Reeds Pinnacle. We climbed it in six pitches from the top of the pinnacle. Great climb! Put up by Dan McDivett I think. Not sure what he rated it. Felt like 11a or b. I remember a very exposed 3rd pitch that traverses on an incut hand rail with no feet. Not hard but exciteing exposure. Not one to miss if your looking for something new.

Not sure how I got up it without a topo.

Jeff
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Apr 29, 2010 - 03:47pm PT
I have not climbed the Erect...

kev
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Apr 29, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
Where's Brenda Puff with the beta?
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 29, 2010 - 04:18pm PT
Hey Jeff, tell us more about this route. I remember seeing from top of Reed's pinnacle not well define crack/grove with couple of pitons. Difficult to imagine that it goes up 6 pitches ?
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2010 - 04:47pm PT
P1 up past pins and other small gear. Higher there is a bolt then an anchor 10+

p2 up face past a few bolts, 5 or so, to 2 bolt anchor 10

p3 go right and up , gear and bolts. Then hand traverse left with pockets to a fist crack, then hands up flake. At the top of the flake hand traverse left on rail to a ledge with 2 bolts 11-

p4 up fist crack to 2 bolt anchor 10

p5 up past pin, left to a bolt, up to another bolt, then back right on hummocks to a bolt and gear anchor

p6 up thin crack then past fixed head, past 2 bolts, right under roof, then back left to 2 bolt belay.

pro to #4 camalot

rap 6 to 4, 4 to 1, 1 to big ledge the 2nd pitch of the direct ends

Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 29, 2010 - 05:13pm PT
thanks, sound good for all day outing: 9 pitches total starting from the base.
Is it possible to rappel "Erect" just with one rope? (is 70 m make a difference)
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
I don't think you can rap with 1 rope.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Apr 29, 2010 - 05:16pm PT
Alexey,

Since you'd be rapping 6 to 4 and 4 to 1 I think you're hosed...but I haven't done it so wtf do I know...

you headed back to the ditch this weekend?

kev

EDIT: Damn Jeff, you're fast today!
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 29, 2010 - 05:53pm PT
yea, I 'll be there even for one day since I have to work on Saturday. I did not miss any weekends this year except of one where it was poring rain/snow on both days, see you
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