Ohno Wall, BC

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Buju

Trad climber
the range of light
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 31, 2010 - 02:36pm PT
My cousin just told me about this thing. He spends a lot of time up there and has seen Moby Dick from a distance and thinks it looks fun. He says it is big and granite. Anyone know anything about it?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 31, 2010 - 04:17pm PT
There is a report on the first ascent of the wall in the Canadian Alpine Journal, volume 56 (1973), at page 14. It was climbed in August 1972 by Dave Jones, John Markel, and Robbins Wallace. It's also in the Selkirks South guidebook, by Dave, at page 296.
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Mar 31, 2010 - 04:31pm PT
I think there is a reason it is called the "Oh-No! Wall"
gf

climber
Mar 31, 2010 - 04:58pm PT
Davey is building a retirement place in the selkirks at present, but i will alert him to this thread. Tim McAllister and I climbed Yes Please spire in 99 (a hidden gem btw) which sits on the left margin of this cliff -there are some nice chunks of uncimbed stone on this wall (like all of it but for the original line) but you will need to take the approach of "it don't have to be fun to be fun" to get to them. Instead go a little to the west as the crow flies-i remember seeing something interesting in 04 that-a-way when Tim and I did a traverse of a number of peaks out of centennial pass that finished up on the summit of moby dick.

gf
gf

climber
Apr 1, 2010 - 10:26am PT
Rumor has it that Dave is lurking-details should forthcoming-or you could just buy his guidebook per MH suggestion?
MrSelkirk

Mountain climber
Golden, BC
Apr 1, 2010 - 06:39pm PT
Hello boys and girls:

I'm quite puzzled as to why the west face of Moby Dick, Southern Selkirks, has not seen another ascent since our original adventure back in 1972. Now to do it in the spirit of the original ascent, it is only 5 days walk south of the Rogers Pass. In 1972 it required 5 days to make the first ascent of Oh No wall (after walking in) but with better climbing techniques and gear, should be possible to halve our time.

The rock is generally very sound. Some loose rock and pebbles on the lower ledges (and lower angle) but very little in the top half. In my estimation there is room for several high quality new routes on the face, notably to the south (right) of our original ascent.

In 1972 the glacier at the foot of the wall was easy to travel but with continued glacial recession, an approach to the base of the face could pose some challenges.

David P. Jones
gf

climber
Apr 1, 2010 - 07:48pm PT
DAAAAAVID

You need to post up some shots -enquiring bugaboo lemmings need to see what they're missing
gf
Buju

Trad climber
the range of light
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2010 - 08:25pm PT
Lets get some shots and hear some stories! I may be planning a trip out there this summer...
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Apr 1, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
Hi Dave,

Welcome to the ST mad house! Some pictures would be great. I've been trying to climb and ski as much as possible but haven't gone to Skaha in a while. Give my best to Joey and good luck on your secret guide book project.

Jim
Gvickowski

Mountain climber
Longmeadow, Ma
Apr 2, 2010 - 12:51am PT
The excellent trip report of the FA is available here, in the google books scan of the 1973 American Alpine Journal. Click next page/previous page if it doesn't show up at first.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 2, 2010 - 12:54am PT
David P. Jones

And just what are you doing in this idiots' village? You used to have more sense than that. Have you become as senile as the rest of us?

David Harris

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 2, 2010 - 02:06am PT
You can skip google books (which often does not include the photos).
You can find the article and photo direct on the AAC "Search AAJ" page:
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/documents/pdf/aaj/1973/jones_mobydick1973_316-319.pdf
Timmc

climber
BC
Apr 2, 2010 - 08:17am PT

I concur with David and Greg that there is much potential in the area.

When I get home in a month I will try and scan some shots of Yes Please Spire and figure out how to post them.
There was something in Gripped on our holiday there but I don't remember what issue.
Gvickowski

Mountain climber
a flatter spot than I'd like
Apr 2, 2010 - 05:40pm PT
I'm afraid the most relevant photo I have is only marginally relevant- the spire is visible but the wall is not.
Credit: Gvickowski
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 2, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
DAVE !!! Yeah !!! What the fakk are you doin' in this circus ? Scream into the pillow or run away to the hills. Ya might get the SILLY CLIMBER award fer actually postin' to Stupor Torpor.

HAHAHAHAHAH!!!! What Foodeater above said 'cept "inquiring"....jeez, duzzin't he, like, have a university degree or something????.
Even Short David ( now in Murrica ) is postin' here!!! And JimB!!! TimMcA... ( hell, he "CONCURS" holycrap where did he get wordz like that? )
And OTHERS more HIDDEN behind weird 'avatars'!!!!
We could stage a coup of this forum if enough of us from Canukistan appear. It could sent the Yanx yankin' :-D

Big Huge Grin!!!
Tami ( Knight ) ( yeah, that one )

p/s Tim???? Get back to me about them drawings fer the BuggyBoos, eh ?
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 2, 2010 - 07:04pm PT
It should confuse them that many of us are named Dave. I'll ask Dave W, Dave N, Dave V, and other Daves to help with diversionary tactics.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Apr 2, 2010 - 07:08pm PT
Anders " NotDavid" Ourom, I presume ?


SING IT !!! ( la Kids in the Hall )
These are the Daves I know I know, these are the Daves I know...
bmacd

Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
Apr 3, 2010 - 01:06am PT
It's all fiction till someone posts a picture .... what is the vertical relief of the route in question ?

Greetings Davey Jones !
Gvickowski

Mountain climber
a flatter spot than I'd like
Apr 3, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
There's a picture on the first page of the AAJ link above(Clint Cummins's link, not mine).
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Apr 3, 2010 - 02:16pm PT
Dave, I'm wondering if your FA partner, John Markel is an old friend of mine. Does he have an older brother Bruce, they were both kick-ass alpine skiers, and he is also an accomplished artist?

If so, do you have any idea where he is now? We went to high school and were ski instructors at Loveland Ski Area together. Around that time (of your FA), he used to date a girl named Carol that lived behind me.

If it's the same one, he and Bruce had a very harrowing adventure on a winter ascent of S. Maroon Peak.

Scott Mossman
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