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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 5, 2009 - 06:31am PT
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Just ran across this in an old box - 1986 putting up "The Wizard" at Crow Hill. One pin courtesy Ed Webster on one of his routes we crossed and a bunch of dubious micro placements - I think we went through a dozen pre-sliced Air Voyagers before Marco Fedrizzi finally stuck the FA on the rascal. One of the few times I've ever used chalk as well, so it must have been pretty hot. It swings the corner to the right off the layback by my right hand and tops out under the overhang. It think it was one of my first forays with double ropes. Short, but sweet and entertaining.
Drizzle, Drazzle, Drozzle, Drome, Time for this one to come home - help me Mr. Wizard...
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richross
Trad climber
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Marco perfecting his double rope technique in the Gunks hinterlands.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Photos like that last one will get you out of your chair! Man, that route looks good!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Crow Hill, wow, that's a blast from the past.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Ho man! Ed, you got that one. Could end up badly.
The rock at Crow Hill always weirded me out (I've got family in Amherst).
But I started out on double ropes in '68 in Switzerland and can remember climbers in the '70s thinking I was crazy. But pitches with pendulums or that follow parallel cracks can be a lot easier/ better protected with doubles.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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Rich - nice one! Wish I'd been over for that one. Marco has given up the ghost for fly fishing the last few yeaers. Need to get him back to the shadows...
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richross
Trad climber
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Healyje,I wish you had been there too.
Marco in the shadows with Rich Romano.
As belay slave.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Here's how to maybe not use them...
Dave (the climbing area) in Begium last week. Just south of Namur on the river.
Couldn't really figure out what was going on. Older feller, takin' a kid out climbing. Kid is tethered to the guy. Someone had led the pitch, and, he was coachin' the kid up the rock, while occasionally futzing with the ropes to his right. They'd used doubles to climb the pitch and you can see the knot in the ropes down from the anchor just above them.
We left before they got too much higher off the ground.
-Brian in SLC
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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Looks sketch all the way around, not even going to try and figure out what they were up to.
Rich, gotta go with mcreel and say that looks fantastic. Miss the Gunks RoofWorld.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2009 - 01:45am PT
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Scanned in the rest of the shots:
Marco turning turtle and the corner...
Help me Mr. Wizard...
Smiles and blown stitches
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