Rocklin (Deer Creek Park)

 
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Bay Area Bouldering, California, USA


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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
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  • 4
  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.0)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 100%  (2)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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   Apr 16, 2013 - 11:34pm
Left-Hand Man V4 SDS
Left-Hand Man V4 SDS
Credit: Killer K

Check out this new? problem! SDS on a low side-pull for your left and a gaston face hold for your right on the right side of arÍte, left of the Bucket Flake. Make a big move to a full right hand edge left of the crack. Traverse left around the arÍte and up the slab to the top using long reaches and compression slopers. V4 sit or V3 stand on big right hand and low left side-pull. A fun addition to the Rocklin circuit. This boulder is in plain site as you enter from the tire shop parking lot.
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Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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   Apr 11, 2013 - 03:57pm
There has been alot of chipping/vandalizing the rock out here and its becoming a big problem. The low Pacific St. Traverse, the Children of the Night Traverse and the unnamed V6 slab problem on the same boulder, even comfortably numb v7 has had holds improved. Flakes have been pried off, as well as a ton of new graffiti. It is a shame to see this happening and I hope it is non climbers doing the damage but it seems to be the harder problems that are being altered. However someone has took it upon themselves, or there was an organized clean up recently and it made a huge difference. The fixed carpet and the futon are gone and the area looks generally more cleaned up. Big ups to whoever is volunteering their time!

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gold

Boulder climber
norcal
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   Aug 31, 2012 - 08:49pm
This summer I put up a cool 4 star sloper test piece that you guys should check out. It is called story in stone v8 and is probably the hardest problem on the pacific street wall. The crux revolves around a HUGE move off of two slopers

Staying off of the" right leaning crack", sit start at a low lefthand sidepull and sloping right hand crimp. reach up to the perfect sloper and do some footwork to get your feet high. get your left hand on the smallish sloper and make a big blind throw for the pocket. make sure to stay off of the juggy lip of "right leaning crack".

check out the FA footage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8Y4IZau-aw&feature=plcp
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gold

Boulder climber
norcal
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   Jul 11, 2012 - 10:15pm
KillerK,

you should definitely go try this line! A couple weeks ago there were two fixed mattresses beneath the pacific street wall as well as a long piece of carpet so the place needs cleaned up pretty badly.
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Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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   Jul 11, 2012 - 06:26pm
Gold,

So you linked the sit start to right leaning crack v3 into the low pacific st wall traverse v3/4 into the top out of quarry pinch v8? I got to get on it looks cool. Mustve been an old video I threw away thay fixed mattress.

Yes we should organize a cleanup the area needs it. There is still potential for fa's if youre creative.
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splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Jul 9, 2012 - 01:21pm
 
nice gold!

locals need to organize a crag cleanup of this spot. some fun climbs, but the trash and glass... if cleaned up will it just return again?
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gold

Boulder climber
norcal
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   Jul 9, 2012 - 01:07pm
a couple weeks ago I did a sit start/variation to the quarry pinch FA? It added a new low crux to the problem where you establish on double underclings, the problem felt v9/10.

check out the vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_L-uYpB3Nc
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Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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   Oct 27, 2010 - 09:58pm
There are a couple problems worth checking out that aren't in the book. Right of The Bucket Flake a V3 mantel problem just to the right; the buckets from the flake are off. And just to the right of the V3 mantel is a V2 face climb that starts on matching edges then moves up through crimps and pockets.

Ferraro Treversarro V3 is a traverse left of The Nook area on crimps over a rock then heel hook hand match to juggy top out sick!

Bambi Arete V2 slabby arete right of Bambi V10

MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN UP AS MUCH TRASH AS YOU CAN WHEN YOU'RE OUT THERE!
IF YOU SEE SOMEONE BREAKING BOTTLES BEAT THE CR@P OUT OF THEM!
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Steve

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
May 11, 2009 - 01:26am
 
Thanks for the beta/reminder Fet. I got it all fixed now. - and Vic Copeland added a lot of new beta for a lot of new problems (up to V10!) at Rocklin/Deer Creek Park!! check it out in the book..
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the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jan 21, 2009 - 02:56pm
 
It's called Deer Creek Park.

Directions: I80 east from Sac, Pacific exit in Rocklin (20 minutes NE of Sac), go straight about 2 miles, just after the light at Farron St. It's on the left, to the side of the auto repair places. There's no parking however, so take a left on Farron and park on a side street.

Pacific Street Wall is the face, facing well.. Pacific Street.

The overhanging crack on the far right of that wall is good, about V2/V3, called Nemesis or The Squeeze.

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 -   - Bay Area Bouldering, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Kelsey Howard climbs Crack Face (V0).
Photo: Chris Summit
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