the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Thanks chief big dome.
The place was thoroughly cleaned up a few years ago by CRAGS, but its a hangout for local teenagers so it will always need cleanup.
I pick up some trash every time I go but you can't beat all the clueless/lazy ignoramuses.
I saw a teenager throw trash into the creek near this park. Not only did he litter but in the worst spot possible. If he walked 10 more feet he could have thrown it in a vacant lot. Maybe he thinks the creek just magically takes his trash out for him?
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Chief Big Dome
Boulder climber
Roseville, CA
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I've done quite a bit of raking around many of the boulders here recently and removed a ton of broken glass and trash. It's looking much better than before, but it's a work in progress and we'll see how long it stays that way. I'm going to contact the city and see if they can throw down on a couple bags of bark that I can put down below some or all of the boulder spots.
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beamo
Boulder climber
pollock pines,ca
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHnNCj8pnGY
link to the sds mantel problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYwVhan8mWA
link to the left hand man
video of both climbs are from 2010
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Check out this new? problem! SDS on a low side-pull for your left and a gaston face hold for your right on the right side of arête, left of the Bucket Flake. Make a big move to a full right hand edge left of the crack. Traverse left around the arête and up the slab to the top using long reaches and compression slopers. V4 sit or V3 stand on big right hand and low left side-pull. A fun addition to the Rocklin circuit. This boulder is in plain site as you enter from the tire shop parking lot.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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There has been alot of chipping/vandalizing the rock out here and its becoming a big problem. The low Pacific St. Traverse, the Children of the Night Traverse and the unnamed V6 slab problem on the same boulder, even comfortably numb v7 has had holds improved. Flakes have been pried off, as well as a ton of new graffiti. It is a shame to see this happening and I hope it is non climbers doing the damage but it seems to be the harder problems that are being altered. However someone has took it upon themselves, or there was an organized clean up recently and it made a huge difference. The fixed carpet and the futon are gone and the area looks generally more cleaned up. Big ups to whoever is volunteering their time!
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gold
Boulder climber
norcal
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This summer I put up a cool 4 star sloper test piece that you guys should check out. It is called story in stone v8 and is probably the hardest problem on the pacific street wall. The crux revolves around a HUGE move off of two slopers
Staying off of the" right leaning crack", sit start at a low lefthand sidepull and sloping right hand crimp. reach up to the perfect sloper and do some footwork to get your feet high. get your left hand on the smallish sloper and make a big blind throw for the pocket. make sure to stay off of the juggy lip of "right leaning crack".
check out the FA footage: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8Y4IZau-aw&feature=plcp
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gold
Boulder climber
norcal
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KillerK,
you should definitely go try this line! A couple weeks ago there were two fixed mattresses beneath the pacific street wall as well as a long piece of carpet so the place needs cleaned up pretty badly.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Gold,
So you linked the sit start to right leaning crack v3 into the low pacific st wall traverse v3/4 into the top out of quarry pinch v8? I got to get on it looks cool. Mustve been an old video I threw away thay fixed mattress.
Yes we should organize a cleanup the area needs it. There is still potential for fa's if youre creative.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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nice gold!
locals need to organize a crag cleanup of this spot. some fun climbs, but the trash and glass... if cleaned up will it just return again?
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gold
Boulder climber
norcal
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a couple weeks ago I did a sit start/variation to the quarry pinch FA? It added a new low crux to the problem where you establish on double underclings, the problem felt v9/10.
check out the vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_L-uYpB3Nc
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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There are a couple problems worth checking out that aren't in the book. Right of The Bucket Flake a V3 mantel problem just to the right; the buckets from the flake are off. And just to the right of the V3 mantel is a V2 face climb that starts on matching edges then moves up through crimps and pockets.
Ferraro Treversarro V3 is a traverse left of The Nook area on crimps over a rock then heel hook hand match to juggy top out sick!
Bambi Arete V2 slabby arete right of Bambi V10
MAKE SURE YOU CLEAN UP AS MUCH TRASH AS YOU CAN WHEN YOU'RE OUT THERE!
IF YOU SEE SOMEONE BREAKING BOTTLES BEAT THE CR@P OUT OF THEM!
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Steve
Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Thanks for the beta/reminder Fet. I got it all fixed now. - and Vic Copeland added a lot of new beta for a lot of new problems (up to V10!) at Rocklin/Deer Creek Park!! check it out in the book..
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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It's called Deer Creek Park.
Directions: I80 east from Sac, Pacific exit in Rocklin (20 minutes NE of Sac), go straight about 2 miles, just after the light at Farron St. It's on the left, to the side of the auto repair places. There's no parking however, so take a left on Farron and park on a side street.
Pacific Street Wall is the face, facing well.. Pacific Street.
The overhanging crack on the far right of that wall is good, about V2/V3, called Nemesis or The Squeeze.
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Kelsey Howard climbs Crack Face (V0).Photo: Chris Summit
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