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Home >> Route Beta >> Southwest Desert Towers Monday, March 18, 2024 
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  The wild 5.9 summit of Otto's Route.
 
Photo:Chris McNamara
   

The Best Southwest Desert Tower Routes
Climb a southwest desert tower and you are guaranteed an adventure. Most towers are in a remote settings, offer challenging climbing, and incredible summits. Moab is base camp for most desert tower adventures and we have provided a list of many of the more moderate and classic climbs in the area. Below are more than enough classic climbs to fill any extended road trip.

Related Links
Check out Desert Towers Select— our guide to the best desert tower climbs
Take a look at our free SuperTopo of Primrose Dihedrals on Moses
Learn general information about Southwest Desert Towers climbing — where to stay, how to get there, maps, etc...


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1 - 15 of total 17 routes found. 
[ Thumbnails | Text  ]
Route Name Formation Review
Off Balanced Rock - Northeast Chimney 5.7 R - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Northeast Chimney
5.7 R, Off Balanced Rock

The route starts behind the boulders.
Photo:Sarah Felchlin
Off Balanced Rock
2
5.7 R
2 Star Rating
Fisher Towers, Lizard Rock - Leapin' Lizards 5.10a R - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Leapin' Lizards
5.10a R, Fisher Towers, Lizard Rock

The more direct and terrifying line.
Photo:Chris McNamara
Fisher Towers, Lizard Rock
1
5.10a R
2 Star Rating
Owl Rock - Owl Rock 5.9 - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Owl Rock
5.9, Owl Rock


Photo:
Owl Rock
2
5.9
3 Star Rating
Fisher Towers, Lizard Rock - Entry Fee 5.8 R - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Entry Fee
5.8 R, Fisher Towers, Lizard Rock

Entry Fee with the standard runout finish shown. The large flake offers the last protection.
Photo:Chris McNamara
Fisher Towers, Lizard Rock
1
5.8 R
3 Star Rating
Three Penguins - Right Chimney 5.10c - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Right Chimney
5.10c, Three Penguins

A view of the route from the road.
Photo:Chris McNamara
Three Penguins
2
5.10c
3 Star Rating
Castleton Tower - North Face 5.11c - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
North Face
5.11c, Castleton Tower

A view from the approach.
Photo:Dougald MacDonald
Castleton Tower
3
5.11c
3 Star Rating
Great Wall - Chinese Eyes 5.10b - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Chinese Eyes
5.10b, Great Wall


Photo:
Great Wall
1
5.10b
3 Star Rating
Grapevine Buttress - Regular Route 5.11d of 5.9 A2+ - Grand Canyon, Arizona, USA. Click for details.
Regular Route
5.11d of 5.9 A2+, Grapevine Buttress

The route starts a little right then moves to the center of the buttress.
Photo:Corey Rich
Grapevine Buttress
8
5.11d of 5.9 A2+
3 Star Rating
Castleton Tower - North Chimney 5.9 - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
North Chimney
5.9, Castleton Tower

A view from the approach.
Photo:Dougald MacDonald
Castleton Tower
3
5.9
4 Star Rating
Castleton Tower - Kor-Ingalls 5.9 - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Kor-Ingalls
5.9, Castleton Tower

A view from the approach.
Photo:Dougald MacDonald
Castleton Tower
4
5.9
5 Star Rating
Moses - Primrose Dihedrals 5.11d - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Primrose Dihedrals
5.11d, Moses

A view of the route from the base.
Photo:Dougald MacDonald
Moses
8
5.11d
5 Star Rating
Independence Monument - Otto's Route 5.9 - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Otto's Route
5.9, Independence Monument

Otto's Route from near the approach.
Photo:Chris McNamara
Independence Monument
4
5.9
5 Star Rating
Stolen Chimney - Ancient Art 5.8 A0 - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Ancient Art
5.8 A0, Stolen Chimney

Ancient Art from the approach.
Photo:Chris McNamara
Stolen Chimney
4
5.8 A0
5 Star Rating
North Six Shooter - Lightning Bolt Cracks 5.11b - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Lightning Bolt Cracks
5.11b, North Six Shooter

The climbing route as seen from the base.
Photo:Dougald MacDonald
North Six Shooter
4
5.11b
5 Star Rating
The Rectory - Fine Jade 5.11a - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click for details.
Fine Jade
5.11a, The Rectory

The Rectory from Castleton Tower.
Photo:Chris McNamara
The Rectory
4
5.11a
5 Star Rating
1 - 15 of total 17 climbing routes found Next 15 Routes >> 


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