Lunar Ecstasy, Moonlight Buttress Area IV/V 5.10 C2


Zion National Park, Utah, USA

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Social climber
May 27, 2016 - 02:26am
Great climb, lots of adventures. Some tricks needed up high but nothing out of the ordinary.

The '5.10' direct start was very easy for the grade. We took the second pitch, the straight up variation, which went by quick but was pretty chossy. Be careful of dropping some rocks this way.

The pitch off Farewell is NOT a hard pitch if you keep your eyes open and look around - options everywhere. The Amoeba pitch was probably the crux, although the amoeba itself was very very easy to free past. Some free moves up higher and off the next pitch (5.8) were surprisingly funky.


There's a stacked boulder about microwaved sized that wobbles when you look at it right on top of the amoeba. It will go soon, be careful and give the belayer a heads up as you pass it.

Took the "c1" crack which has some nice spice at the top.

A killer route, my favorite in the park. Great location and thoughtful aid.

3 to 4 each small to #.75BD cam
a few hand sized and a #3BD cam
Didn't use a single regular stopper
used most of my aluminum and brass offsets, sometimes 2-3 per pitch (which was cool because I had the one set....)
Offset cams were clutch
basic talon hook (used a few times)

A great alternative to the lines on Moonlight as well.

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Trad climber
berkeley ca
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   Jul 31, 2009 - 05:43pm
I think that C3 might be more fitting for pitches 5 & 7, but that was years ago. BRING THE BRASS. We used Cam hooks before it was determined that that ws a really bad idea on SS, my partner and I took some 30+ foot dives.
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Moonlight Buttress Area - Lunar Ecstasy  IV/V 5.10 C2 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Bryan Bird
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