Great way to break into 5.7 hands. The stances are solid for placing gear and the jams are solid for a variety of hand sizes. The traverse can be protected by slinging the flake but the traverse is 5.5 at max.
Continue up Swan Slab gully for a full rope length, belay in the gully, and have your 2nd run up and continue up the gully to the 5.5 fingers described in the topo for Swan Slab gully.
Yup I think its 5.7 and a little weird to have hands in a crack that feels more like a layback type flake. I believe the crux lies at the end of the flake before the traverse. Protect the traverse even though it's easy.
I've climbed this twice. the first time I led it, I was distracted by the traffic noise, and the rating seemed about 5.7.
went back a couple of years later, and it seemed easier.
Swan Slab offers the highest concentration of short, moderate routes in Yosemite.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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