Grant's Crack, Swan Slab 5.9

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.3)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 50%  (2)
3 star: 25%  (1)
2 star: 25%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Toby

Trad climber
CT/VT
Aug 7, 2003 - 09:49pm
 
Bolts are shown in the topo...they are no longer there.

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Legion

Trad climber
CT/VT
Aug 10, 2003 - 03:39pm
 
New bolts were put in somewhere around the end of June. Grant himself oversaw the operation. Are they chopped?
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Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Aug 10, 2003 - 05:19pm
 
Yes, as I have heard, the new bolts that we placed have been chopped. We removed the old bolts (pre Grant's Crack) and the hangers were given to a local to add to his collection of climbing archives, which will soon become a museum (if all goes well). The anchors above the Penthouse Cracks were also replaced but I am unaware if they have been chopped as well.

I guess even bolt choppers get their bolts chopped...
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Dadat

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
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   Aug 11, 2003 - 09:12pm
Grant's Crack,

I just wanted to reconfirm that the bolts had been chopped a few weeks ago. They were really awsome bolts for Grant's Crack yet they created a lot of rope drag for the 10a and 10c beside them. Though those bolts were chopped there is a great tree to anchor to 10-15 feet higher then the bolts were placed. But don't get cocky, it is a little sketch getting to it but no problem at all. But none the less, it was my first and one of my favorite climbs in the valley. Great 5.9 beginners crack.

good climbing to all,
Dadat
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Toby

Trad climber
CT/VT
Aug 19, 2003 - 09:10pm
 
The bolts atop of penthouse cracks are in place. Im glad we didn't have to use the skecty wooden block.

As for the tree that thing looks tiny I wouldn't mess with that thing.....let it live!
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Matt Leonard

Trad climber
Oakland, ca
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   Jun 23, 2008 - 10:56pm
Great climb. The bolts are indeed gone (as of June 21st 2008), but an easy anchor can be built. Once you hit the obvious big ledge, continue up ~20 feet on easy 5th class to the little tree. The tree had no less than 7 or 8 slings around it (from 1" webbing to 4 mil cord!), with a pair of rap rings around the whole mess. You can easily backup the tree on the crack behind it, but we rapped off the tree, as had many before us.
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Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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   Mar 18, 2010 - 05:03pm
There's a fun 5.6 chimney above the Grant's Crack tree. We only had up to a #4 Camalot and had to chimney with no pro for about 20 feet or so. It was easy enough as the chimney was low angle, but if you had a #6 Camalot you could probably protect this section. At the top of the chimney, we traversed to the top of Bay Tree Flake and belayed from there. For the walk off, see Oak Tree Flake.
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pbeurskens

Trad climber
Seattle
Jul 15, 2010 - 07:21pm
 
I second that there are currently two holes in the rock where bolts once were. This sucks because now the tree above where the bolts were doesn't have a chance of sticking around/living given that this crag is right at Camp 4 and a great warm up.
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JD Morris

Mountain climber
Bay Area, CA
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   Dec 5, 2012 - 01:50pm
Grant's crack was short but enjoyable. As noted below, there are no anchor bolts as shown in Reid and Supertopo. I found two chopped and two pulled bolts and expoxy, instead. I believe I used a #2 and #1 C4 in some pockets for an anchor, which I wouldn't have brought had I been sure there were bolts and there weren't a lot of other good options if you wanted to top rope or belay up a second without lousy rope drag. The "5.5" chimney adjacent to Oak Tree Flake is probably a decent walk off for anyone that can lead the 5.9 or 5.10a route up to the chopped bolts.
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khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
Dec 5, 2012 - 09:16pm
 
There are generally slings and rings in the tree just above the ledge where oak tree flake ends. Or if you continue up and left you can descend very easily, coming out climber's left of the slabs.
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wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 8, 2012 - 12:33pm
 
I'd be happy to put the anchor bolts back if the consensus is saving the tree is better then keeping climb original as I assume is the reason the bolts got pulled? I'm going to replace some bad bolts on other climbs around there and would be happy to help that tree because it does get rapped and top roped from all the time.
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briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
Dec 8, 2012 - 02:28pm
 
I don't have much to say about that anchor, but the first pitch anchor on the old aid route around the corner could use some love, last time I checked.
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khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
Dec 8, 2012 - 10:23pm
 
If there is some controversy over pointless convenience anchors then why not walk off? If not down-climbing the chimney, climb Bay Tree Flake above Oak Tree Flake... it's fun. Then paddle over some boulders and head left before descending.
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wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Dec 9, 2012 - 12:30pm
 
If we could talk the masses out of using pointless convenient anchors, what a wonderful world it would be. Problem is they'll keep using the tree, and as was mentioned, said tree wont be there down the road. It is a small one. So maybe better to save it instead of educating the masses which wont happen?
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Al_Smith

climber
San Francisco, CA
May 21, 2013 - 06:45am
 
wstmrnclmr - If you are still planning to replace old bolts in the swan slabs area, can I suggest replacing the old single bolt atop bay tree flake. There is a flake behind which cams can be placed, but its tough to make a legitimate anchor out of that. I don't know that anyone would ever fall on P2 and therefore need much of an anchor, but if you are in the area rebolting, it would likely be a prime candidate. Just a thought...
P.S. Thanks for making the effort to re-equip some heavily used routes.
-Al
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wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
May 22, 2013 - 12:02am
 
Hi Al,
I just saw your post. I'd be happy to put a good anchor at the tree since it seems everyone keeps using the tree for an anchor and top rope. Hopefully it won't get chopped. I was going to replace an old climb but Clint beat me to it. Another tree that gets used a lot for an anchor is at the top of Swan slab itself. I'll look there as well the next time I'm in the valley.
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Swan Slab - Grant's Crack 5.9 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Swan Slab offers the highest concentration of short, moderate routes in Yosemite.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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