Direct Route, Reed's Pinnacle 5.10a

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 7, 2014 - 12:21am
 
I led it about two years ago, no fixed gear then. I was very scared on the lower half that is technically easy, not mentally ready for the exposure over questionable gear, and not lots of mileage under my belt in back-knee chimneys and transitioning out of them. That move out is committing, but it would be casual easy on top-rope. After that, the pro is so good in the technical crux that the crux seems not as bad. That was my take anyways.
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ElGreco

Mountain climber
Mar 6, 2014 - 10:39pm
 
No booty, Grippa. But looks like a #4 has spent several winters in the OW up there.
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HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:44pm
 
Just one correction for El Greco
But there's a reason this doesn't get climbed often
I've seen P3 climbed three times (by others) in three trips to Reed's. I believe it does get climbed frequently.
It DOES look very scary.
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Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 11, 2014 - 08:02pm
 
Did you leave any booty up there on your epic senor greco?
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ElGreco

Mountain climber
Feb 7, 2014 - 03:28pm
 
I am no Valley hardman - a mere occasional weekend warrior with an affinity for the wYde stuff - but I found p.3 heads up. The bulk of the chimney is spooky with the dark void underneath you, but actually very secure. The pro is sketchy though. Thin micro-cam placements, a couple of OK nuts on a thin flake on the right (that I equalized) and the pins.

About 2/3 up, I found the exit move from the chimney committing, and your last good pro is a good ways down. Nut tool gardening on the crack to the right produced no good placements. The offwidth itself is more of a squeeze for a good part of it. I cried for mama and had a rope lowered from the top anchors by a party that had taken the regular route finish (thanks, Gwen!) And good thing I did, because I had to hangdog the crap out of what remained of the pitch.

Someone more seasoned may make short work of this. But there's a reason this doesn't get climbed often, and it's a good reason... There's a horrendously overcammed C4 #4 high up, rusting away. Bring some tools if you fancy some weathered gear or some good karma for cleaning up.

Oh, p.1-2: awesome! But everyone knows that. Take the wide finish on p.2 and don't wimp out to the left.
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mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 19, 2012 - 06:15am
 
Vitaliy, I was kidding you about the Vitalis when I commented on your Trip to the Third Pillar. You need several dabs in cold weather, whether you think you do or not.
And if you can handle the Pillar, you will likely have no trouble with Reeds Direct's first two pitches. I think Tom's advice is worth attending. I would not recommend stringing the two together until you have ticked both separately.
The OW on top of #2 is killer on a good day, but you can protect the hell out of it. Just don't waste your time worrying on it til you get there. Same mental attitude as "I don't need to look down."
The lieback off the ground is remarkably fun, as is the rest of the pitch. You are on your own for the 3rd pitch, cuz I've tried to lead it centuries ago. Failed and bailed.
I used stoppers and hexcentrics back in the dark ages. I had no cams, just a camera that was out of film. Take some phone phootage, OK? Do another Trip Report?
I have the photo of Werner on my wall, along with dozens of other photos from old calendars, mags, etc. The caption on "Werner in 3D," as I call the picture, reeds: "God so loved us that He sent his only Son to mow the grass and sweep the driveway, but He went climbing instead." Peace, and hi to Ch.
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BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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   Apr 5, 2012 - 07:48pm
werner plugged in
werner plugged in
Credit: photo by bob gaines
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PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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   Apr 5, 2012 - 03:23pm
I think you'd risk getting a #5 stuck on the second pitch wide section, if you could even fit it in the crack. The upper "OW" comfortably takes a #4 and isn't really an OW unless you're small - you can get in some light hand jams and mostly walk up on some twisted foot jams.

The upper wide section comes in two tiers, each off of great ledges for a no-hands rest, so you might want 2 #4s to protect the tiers (or slide one up & then reach back & back clean it). Don't forget, if you get the willies you can bypass this great section through some 5.8 ledges to the left.

I did, however, use a #5 as my first piece to start the second pitch, which is awkward to start. You might be able to work in something smaller, or just suck it up and climb a teeny bit higher than I did for my first piece. You can be silly and get a good placement from a comfortable stance like this



Make sure you bring some mid-size hexes, though. They really do sit better in the crack than cams.

Or, just for overkill, here is what I used for the second pitch, though I sewed it & never bothered leapfrogging. The yellow tricam made the wide sections comfy but was very optional :-)

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scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Apr 5, 2012 - 03:07pm
 
Vitaliy, you don't need anything big for the 3rd pitch.
Some small stoppers and a few fixed pins protect the chimney.
About where you start think OW, you can access a thin crack on the
main wall. the bottom of this crack is about level with the highest
pin (which is in a piton crack back in the chimney).
The crack on the main wall accepts gear up to around 3/4" and provides
holds as well.

EDIT: sorry, I didn't notice that you meant the 2nd pitch.
I think a 4 Camalot is big enough for the top of the 2nd pitch.
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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 5, 2012 - 11:46am
 
Combine the first two pitches for a nice endurance with perfect 5.9 hands to 5.9 hands in pods that provide no rest!!!

LOLOLOL
If I do it in two pitches with no hangs I will be quite happy. Last year 1st pitch of Jamcrack was my goal (in winter), now it is first 2 pitches of Reed's...not expecting to cruise it.
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Sonic

Trad climber
Boulder, Co
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   Apr 5, 2012 - 11:28am
take a 5, you can bump up pretty much the whole way.

The OW on this really isnt that bad. There's feet

Combine the first two pitches for a nice endurance with perfect 5.9 hands to 5.9 hands in pods that provide no rest!!!

Just awesome!!!!
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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 5, 2012 - 11:26am
 
Would having a #5 for the OW part on the 2nd pitch (at the top) sound like a good idea, or #4 (or 2) is ok (for someone who sucks at OW)?
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Seanward

Trad climber
Richmond, CA
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   Mar 16, 2012 - 01:04pm
Great climb. The first pitch is much underappreciated. Starts out with a few moves of thin hands and is technically the hardest spot on the first two pitches. But you can place a bomber piece as you start off of the big detached flake at the bottom. This short section brings you to a small comfortable ledge for a rest before the next section of perfect hand-jamming and number 2 Cam-a-lot placing heaven. It curves left and eases up near the top where you can place a number 3. That brings you to the nice belay spot below pitch two where you gaze up in wonder at the very long, very steep crack that the climb is famous for. From that vantage point it almost looks overhanging but it is mearly vertical. The joke is, no move is harder than 5.9 but no move is easier than 5.9. That's not really true, but the pumpiness of the pitch sure makes it seem that way. Enjoy.
Someone here asked if the inside has been climbed. There is the true story from back in the 60s or 70s of someone climbing on the outside while his buddy climbed the inside, pushing out his friend's gear below the friend as he climbed up the outside. Can't remember who they were though.
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karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 11, 2010 - 10:08am
 
Maybe my new favorite climb in yosemite, but I'm sure I think that after every new climb! I hung around way too much to place gear and felt the pump! Pushed on through and got the onsight. I think I even hollared and yelled a little. If you just trust your jams and cruise it will be stellar. Offwidth at top of pillar was really cool. Chicken wing with my left and heel toe/stem/scum with the right.
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Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Apr 20, 2009 - 03:36pm
 
Awesome. Simply awesome.

I actually thought the first pitch was the better quality pitch (albeit a bit short), but you'll find out how you stand up to 100 consistent feet of 5.9 Yosemite crack on the second pitch. I used some medium to large hexes at the start to save my #3 and #4 camalots for the end. All the other posters have the beta right on, put in gear every now and then but when things look bleak know that the jams will come. While I feel the thin hands on the first pitch is technically harder than anything on the second, the latter part of the climb is so physically demanding that pulling my weary body onto the rest ledge below the offwidth became the crux for me. Also, the offwidth is sweet! Its tough for the first body length then it lets up.

Heads up if you do this climb as two pitches. I built a belay off the tree on the right after the first pitch, then when I realized the lower trunk and root system of this tree were rotting away from termite damage I moved the belay into the alcove directly below the second pitch where I slung a solid block.

On another note, we showed up at 8am, did this climb and finished up on Bongs Away, Left, rappeled, and walked back to our car. When we were driving away nobody else had gotten on the climb! Maybe we made it look tougher than it is that we scared everyone away!
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HalHammer

Trad climber
CA
Oct 19, 2005 - 08:17am
 
The 3rd Pitch direct finish is sweet. The 5.5 chimney to get up there is a little runout but solid. The 10a offwidth protects well with a red alien and #5 and #6 WC Friend (oh yeah love placing those big daddy cams...just make the 2nd carry them in a pack on the way up. I brought 2 screamers to put on the couple decent looking fixed pins on that pitch too. You can get a crappy nut, red alien, and blue/maybe green alien placement in next to the 3 pins to back them up also.
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Bryce Breslin

climber
Oakland, California
Oct 18, 2005 - 05:14pm
 
Another vote for running pitches 1 and 2 together - stallion endurance climbing!! Was for me at least. Makes for an excellent exit pitch as you're leaving the Valley on a Sunday eve, back to wherever on the 120.

Lots of nut placements above the first ledge... though cams would be quicker to place. The irregularity of the crack, plus the mysterious darkness and dead space that looms behind it, make cam placements less straight forward than usual. Wonder if anyone has climbed the inside of this pitch? No doubt, sick puppies.

Cinco estrellas, nena!!
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Matt

Intermediate climber
Oakland, California
Apr 2, 2002 - 05:55pm
 
The funnest way to do this route is from the ground to the top of the 2nd pitch w/ a 60m rope (& another to get off).

Tom has the gear beta exactly right- don't bother too much w/ gear down low- if you aren't gonna crater then just go for it!
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MBoise

Intermediate climber
Oakland, California
Feb 27, 2002 - 04:21pm
 
I just climbed this route last weekend (2/23)

This route is a spectacular endurance test piece for the 1st two pitches of 5.9-9+ consistent climbing. On Pitch 2, save the 3inch and 4 inch cams for the top. There are great alternative smaller pro placements low on this pitch in between the wider hands pods. Don't take too much time to place 'em, though. The rest ledge is a solid 80 ft away...just keep climbing and the holds will come. Have fun!
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tom

Advanced climber
Oakland, California
Feb 9, 2002 - 07:47pm
 
BETA for this route is simple: it's strenous to get to the top of the pillar at the base; after that, you better not slow down too much to place pro. The jams are killer, but F-ing around with pro will burn you big time. There are no rests. So, just go for it, running it out between infrequent pieces until you get near the top. That's when you might need them.
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Reed's Pinnacle - Direct Route 5.10a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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