Book 'em, Dano, Pat and Jack Pinnacle 5.10d

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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   May 14, 2003 - 10:57am
We thought that this was a new route and Book 'em Dano traversed off to the right? Supposedly there was a direct start that was chopped. Though it was fun, it seemed like a bit of a squeeze between Knob Job and what we were calling Book 'em Dano.

Dyno in this case for me = All points leap from a nob for a decent hold with the bolt below. It was fun on TR (no way I'd be dynoing like that on the sharp end!) and unusually sporty for Yosemite. It made me think about why/how we use bolts though, when there was a fine drilling stance at the crux and there was no lack of bolts elsewhere on the route. It probably wouldn't be too bad of a fall though.
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Greg Barnes

climber
Aug 6, 2004 - 12:28am
 
Cool Dimitri, thanks for the beta, we'll try to get the names/descriptions sorted out (think we should have the G-Man continuation as a separate route or just make it all G-Man?).

And a big thanks to you and Steve for drilling big 3/8" bolts on lead. On that subject, I think it's pretty amusing that the oldest bolts I've replaced in the Valley & Tuolumne - 1950s era - were 3/8" star-dryvin bolts. Later 1/4" bolts became the standard...probably because it was such a pain to drill the big suckers, and more bolts were being used. Still, that traverse pitch on Arches Terrace must have been quite a long lead on the FA in 1957 with 3/8" nail-ins!
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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   May 13, 2003 - 08:22pm
The "long reach" at the crux is more like a dyno if you are under 6 feet tall. if you fall it's a 15 foot fall. very heady lead.
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Pat and Jack Pinnacle - Book 'em, Dano 5.10d - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.