I was climbing over at the Apron last weekend, and I noticed there is a
little mislabelling problem with the SuperTopo for the first pitch of the
Harry Daley route. The line shown and described in the SuperTopo is
actually the first pitch of Chouinard Crack.
The actual first pitch of Harry Daley is to the right - you make a couple
of 5.8 face moves off the ledge to reach a small (easy) RFC/flake. This
reaches a small roof where a fixed broken bong and abundant pin scars
attest to years of traffic in the 60s/70s. Make a couple of moves past
the roof on good jams (protection is slighly tricky due to the flaring pin
scars - I used a #3 Rock with a cam below the roof to keep it in place;
the crack was also a bit dirty due to a lack of traffic). Then traverse
left in a foot crack/ledge to the chain belay. This is all shown
correctly in the Meyers/Reid topos, and described correctly in the Roper
guide. Although the latest editions (1987 and 1994+) have a (Y) or (AA)
label at the base of this 5.8 pitch which may confuse things. The "5.8"
on the topo (vs. 5.7 for Chouinard Crack p1) still is enough to identify
Mill Valley, CA
Feb 9, 2002 - 10:42pm
DON'T CLIMB HERE!
LISTEN TO CHRIS!
THE EXFOLIATION PROCESS THAT FORMED YOSEMITE AND THE HIGH COUNTRY DOMES IS NOT DONE. YOU ARE WITNESSING A WORK-IN-PROGRESS FROM THE MASTER HIMSELF.
This is the best 2 pitch route in Yosemite! A good prelude or follow up to Nutcracker. The fist pitch has some rests for placing nuts and aliens in pin scars. Protect the traverse for the second, and belay below big roof crack next to the dead tree. Second pitch has a commiting 5.7 roof move, but it is easily protectable. Little bit of 5.8 fingers to finish off.
Rock fall is always a concern, but check out Selaginella postings and decide for yourself. Do you want to check out with a tennis ball size lump kicked off by other climbers every day at 5 Open Books, or a house sized flake that drops off the Apron once every 5-10 years?
Great route. One 60m rope can be used to descend by rapping from the first station to the big ledge right below the second pitch roof near the dead tree. From there, downclimb down the very easy ramp/flake (4th class/5.2 or so) to the next station, then one 60m rap takes you back to the start of the route.
Clint Cummins is right (see previous post by Chris McNamara). I just climbed P1 of Chouinard Crack and P2 of Harry Daley for the first time in 23 years. It looks as though nobody has recently climbed the true P1 of Harry Daley. From the top of Harry Daley you can do a single rappel on two 60 m ropes with a few feet of easy class 5 downclimbing while hanging on to the end of one rope.
I used to lead this route with the climbing rope tied in hangman's noose around my neck.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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