Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Pro is good on this one, and many think it feels light for the grade. If you're out with some friends cranking for the day, switching leads, try to snag this one and get your friends to lead Moby Dick or Sacherer Cracker. That's if you want to whimp out and get 10c points at the same time.
If you're solid on 5.6+ you'll get less rope drag if you 3rd class the first bit and place your first piece at a block just before you make a step right to the finger crack.
If nobody is around waiting, it's fun, once you've led the pitch to try different variations on TR. You can climb the right crack only, left crack only with a far left start, or wander all over the thing. It's amazing.
Peace
karl
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pell
climber
Moscow
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80m rope is barely enough to rappel from the first (three bolt) anchor to the ground. Be extra careful - rope ends wouldn't lay on the ground, probably you'll need to downclimb some easy moves. One bolt is equipped with a rappel chain and there are a couple of slings with belay rings on the top bolt. Slings are solid and do not need a replacement now.
The route is really soft and well protected.
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The base routes are scattered to the left of the SE Buttress.Photo: Chris McNamara
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