Even though the crux is getting off the ground, every move on the lower section is well protected with small cams and nuts. There are pin scars that make for bomber finger locks and just enough features to provide good stances for placing pro. The crack quickly turns to hands, and from there on up, it's an absolutely beautiful climb!
The right flake variation seemed to protect well with cams up to 1.5" With knobs on the face for feet, this variation seemed quite easy save a layback move just before landing the first ledge... a bomber .3 camalot (or .4?) caught my partner when he whipped off this layback on his first go.
The Reid guide shows a second pitch, but the rock was a little crumbly... must not be done much. It's a 5.7ish flare to the left of the belay tree. After passing couple small ledges, there's a beautiful, exposed 5.8 double crack that takes you to the top of Camp 4 wall.
Dunno why this climb was wide open all weekend... both variations are stunningly good climbs! It's two raps to the ground from the 2nd pitch (bail option halfway up the 2nd pitch); this can be done easily with a 60m rope.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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