Scorched Earth, El Capitan A4 5.8

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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2 Total Ratings
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
May 19, 2010 - 12:25pm
 
here is the original topo from the first ascent


http://www.supertopo.com/topos/yosemite/el-capitan-scorched-earth.pdf

Note on the back of the topo:

note on back of original FA topo of Scorched Earth, El Capitan
note on back of original FA topo of Scorched Earth, El Capitan
Credit: Chris McNamara
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Feb 23, 2011 - 05:14pm
 
Great photo Essay here by Pass The Pitons Pete

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Big_Wall/BFC_s_Big_F_ckin_Cams_for_El_Capitan_5017.html
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cornel

climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
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   Mar 25, 2011 - 10:52am
I highly recommend this route. Did Scorched Earth in Spring of 1998 w/ Warren Hollinger and Brad Jackson. Brad sent the Levitator with a total of maybe 4 pieces at most. I am not exagerating maybe 4, maybe 3 for the entire offwidth. One of the most impressive leads I have ever seen. Doing the sidewinder technique 1500 ft off the deck, it was a thing of beauty. The levitator flake is attached on the top and the bottom so you can see through the flake. If you do it I also recommend you don't clip the junk[ the small heads you place or any of the small fixed heads] If you rip you will just have to clean out those placements and redo all that work. Small heads will not stop a fall anyway so why clip it. It will speed up your lead too. It took us 5 days with 3 pitches fixed. The run off was tremendous from the big winter that year but we were dry except for one belay where there was considerable seepage. I am not sure but I think it was the 10th belay. It is super overhung so hauling is awesome as well. By the way I don't know how it can have a 5.8 rating with the levitator being 5.11??? As Rob Slater said If you don't do the levitator you have not really done the route. Have fun!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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   Mar 28, 2011 - 05:54pm
I see Tom's photo collage of me leading through the roof is still working on his Valley Giants website:

http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/p5roof.html

A fun pitch, and not too terrifying as I recall.

Cheers!
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El Capitan - Scorched Earth A4 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Scorched Earth
Photo: Chris McNamara
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