Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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Mike Martyr
climber
SunnySlope, California
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I Climbed Blues Riff on Saturday using the beta Greg Barnes posted on the Phobos beta forum. (paraphrase)"climb 1&2 on Phobos, traverse over to the top of the second pitch of Blues Riff, and rap onto the ledge at the top of the first pitch. "
Perfect Beta! Avoids first pitch weirdness, Great warm up on phobos, lets BR get in the shade, you can clean the "fixed" piece below the crux (if you want it), leave water and descent shoes at the top of the second.
A couple small things to add. The traverse over is very easy, I think I used my hands in one spot. You have to keep a swing going at the bottom of the rap to get to the ledge, so swing early and don't let your rope get away from you when your on the ledge. Check that no one is on BR or starting it, as jumping ahead by raping in isn't cool, and your ropes would clobber them. You can rap to the ground with two 60m from the top of the second, you should do the third for the fun of it though and walk off (easy). top roping could be a trick without intermediates to keep you in low, (the Crux) and on traverse (not sure).
You might be able to do the rap with a 70m which would be especially nice if you could do the first two of phobos in one with a 70m, does anyone know?
Great route, Like a steeper Outer limts with a thin start.
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Bill
climber
SunnySlope, California
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>You might be able to do the rap with a 70m which would be >especially nice if you could do the first two of phobos in one >with a 70m, does anyone know?
You can do the first two pitches of Phobos with a 60M. Watch out for rope drag.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Hey Mike, I'm pretty sure a 70m rope would NOT make it down to the ledge, that second pitch sure seems like more than 115'.
Last week we completed a new alternate start to Blues Riff: "John Lee Hooker" 5.10b A0. Started this a couple years ago but got thunderstormed off (right about when Hooker died), finally got back to finish it.
Start about 40' right of Phobos at a short vertical crack/lb (5.10a), move right on a ledge, A0 past two bolts (probably go free at not all that hard), then climb up to the roof and traverse right for about 100' of horizontal crack roof traverse. Mostly 5.8/9 with good rests in between, but it's a bit loose in sections, especially around the quartz dike area near the end. There you get big postitive holds in loose and hollow rock, with one hard-to-spot tan bolt way high on the roof (but a good undercling/stem to clip it), protecting an overhung jug fest 5.10b traverse with orange lichen (clean fall into air if you blow it). After that, 4th class to the first anchor on Blues Riff (which is an old pin tied off, with rocks jammed in and tied off as back up).
Not the cleanest route in Tuolumne, but fun. Extra 2-4" pro, optional pro to 6".
Greg
PS Thanks to whoever replaced the tat webbing on the top of the 2nd pitch of Blues Riff with quick links. We just added a chain and links off the upper (3rd) bolt. The hangers up there are stamped SS, pretty sure that was Steve Sutton in early ASCA work...
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Warning: there is a bolted anchor on the top of the cliff about 50' right of the finish of Blues Riff and Phobos. This anchor has NO ANCHORS BELOW within reach of two 60m ropes - do NOT use!
Thanks to Katrina Managan and partners for the warning!
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