Shagadelic, Medlicott Dome, Left 5.8

 
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.3)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
8 Total Ratings
5 star: 38%  (3)
4 star: 50%  (4)
3 star: 13%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 08:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


DONATE NOW
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Rich the Brit

Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
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   Aug 11, 2003 - 11:29am
Climbed this with Courtney in mid July.

Excellent route - well protected crack followed by 2 pitches of well bolted Tuolumne knobs. I felt that crux was actually on the second pitch. The hardest physical move is on the 3rd, but it is staight forward. Don't bother with 4th pitch unless you want to see Lake of the Domes - the climbing decreases in quality very rapidly.

For those of you that enjoy the location as much as the climbing, Lake of Domes is beauiful and there are some excellent walk off options towards Cathedral Lake with great views of the high country.
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Sir Run-it-out

Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
Jul 19, 2004 - 01:06pm
 

So overbolted, that it detracts from the quality of the climb.
Very soft for a 5.8.
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Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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   Jul 21, 2004 - 10:13pm
Sir Run It Out complains about the number of bolts on Shagadelic but not about the number of bolts on Ciebola. Perhaps being able to solo at this grade is the reason it's not exciting enough for him.

Actual 5.8 leaders will enjoy this route. 5.10 and harder leaders will find plenty of spicier moderate leads on the Tuolumne area

Peace

karl
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Greg Barnes

climber
Jul 22, 2004 - 07:00pm
 
It is soft for the grade, but we originally rated it 5.7 and many thought that 10 foot section on the 3rd pitch was too stiff for 5.7 - whatever, it's just a rating. I placed 7 protection bolts on the FA. My long-time FA partner wanted to lead it, so we added a bunch of bolts (all by hand drilling, it took a good long while), and now he leads it and has fun.

If you want to complain about tight bolting, there are TONS of routes in the Meadows with a LOT higher bolt density than this one. Check out late 1970s-era Paiste Formula, or many 5.11-12 sport climbs on Medlicott or elsewhere. Funny how people complain about too many bolts on stuff that's easy for them, but then clip every one when it gets hard.

For fun spicier 5.8's, I replaced all the remaining bad bolts on Great Pumpkin and RCA - those are both excellent with nice tasty runouts, do Great Pumpkin in the morning then do Regular Route after it for a nice Fairview day. There's plenty of rock to go around...
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warren

Trad climber
SF
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   Aug 25, 2004 - 01:22pm
I climbed this route recently and thought it was top notch. I think most 5.8 leaders will enjoy this climb. The last pitch is not too hard but the walk off is well worth it for the views alone.
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Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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   Aug 30, 2004 - 03:31pm
Great route, climbed it 22 August 04.

I'd call it a 5.8 route for 5.7 leaders (not as a diss, but, nicely bolted, thanks Greg!).

My partner felt the second 5.7 pitch was the crux, but, I thought the third pitch was the 5.8 (maybe soft, but, passed quickly its easy to overlook or underestimate sometimes). Plus, its straight up and straight forward. The second pitch, if you jingle and jangle, seemed nicely 5.7.

We topped out, which I'd highly recommend. Not only do you not rap on top of the throngs coming up behind, but, the hike down, the views, the lakes, is stunning and well worth carryin' approach shoes up for. Plus, no need to carry an extra rope.

Great topo. No problemos. Rack recommendation was right on, but, almost didn't need nuts (ha ha!). Only placed maybe 2 med/small ones. Small cams from 0 TCU to #1 Camalot more than adequate. Slings and draws to match, of course.

Pin is missing from the very start of the first pitch. Also, that pin just prior to the first bolt is kinda interesting. Has a smash link to clip into (prevents bad loading on biner). Anyhoo, the pin is kinda positioned poorly (might pop out under load as its loaded in tension mostly). I seem to remember clipping the pin and the first bolt from the same position, so, maybe its extra...

We approached from the more eastward parkin' lot (than the standard Medlicott lot) and kinda bushwacked straight up to the climb, which ended up being pretty efficient.

Fun!

Brian in SLC
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ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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   Apr 27, 2005 - 10:50am
I remember really liking this route. Lots of bolts, on toulomne knobs .. almost fell somewhere on the 3rd pitch.

If this is crowded, then i suggest you try Goldmember .. also a great route, albeit it has a run-out 5.7 pitch .. (which is no big deal)

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Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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   Jul 6, 2007 - 01:44pm
I climbed this with my 15-year-old son on the 4th of July. The "Medlicott Right" approach took only 40 minutes, and we took our time. We did the alternate 5.9 start just left of the standard start; it wasn't so dirty (the moves were clean) and it was very well protected, but it nearly spit me out when a left foothold broke just after I placed pro and got both hands in the crack. We both thought the 5.8 crux was between bolts 6 and 7 on pitch 3. The first section of pitch 4 is NOT runout; I managed to get in a small cam (#1 Metolius) in a horizontal crack plus a small nut in a small left-facing corner before the overhang, which I think was only about 30' rather than 40' above the belay. We scrambled up to the top of Medlicott Dome and enjoyed the majestic scenery. The class 3 descent required some route finding but was easy and beautiful--and surely more enjoyable than rapping on top of the parties below us. Kudos to Greg for pioneering a gem of a climb.
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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 19, 2008 - 09:25pm
 
This is TR'd in a combined post, done with my buddy Lawrence
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=256392

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Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
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   Aug 16, 2009 - 04:24pm
Did this again August 15 2009 with my 14-year-old son. This is a great route Greg - nice find! Agree with one of the posters below. On the 4th pitch, a #00, #0 or #1 TCU is bomber about 30 ft up in a little horizontal slot. Other than the move off the 3rd belay ledge, the climbing is easy up to where you can get in the gear.

Have walked off to the East (north, left when facing the dome) and West (south) and can report that the WestSouthRight is quicker and easier. Still took us more than an hour to get back to the car from the summit.

And, I don't think it is soft for the grade at all. Harder moves on the second and third pitches than anything on the Golfer's Route or Errett Bit for sure. Good standard for 5.8 knobs. Lots of bolts! Good route for a new 5.8 leader.
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Medlicott Dome, Left - Shagadelic 5.8 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Greg Barnes
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