The topo for this route is not very accurate. The fourth bolt is actually a two bolt rap station, so you can rap the route with one rope. The topo notes a .10c section down low, between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, but the real crux is between the 5th and 6th bolts (counting the rap anchor as the 4th bolt), and is definitely more difficult than anything down low on the route. There is also an 8th bolt up and slightly to the left; this leads to slightly easier, but still.10bish, climbing, as opposed to going directly up and over the smooth bulge after the 7th bolt. It also diminishes the runout nature of the climb, making it a reasonable lead. It was my first on sight lead >5.9, so I was very happy to discover that 8th bolt!
The so-called two bolt rap station on Hogwash is not a rap station at all. On the first ascent I blew the bolt placement and Dennis Oakshot went up a placed a second bolt next to my bad bolt and led on and placed a 5th bolt above. Why haven't these all been replaced with 3/8" by now?
"1 in 1 out - route complete[ly replaced] ('one old bolt FELL out when I clipped in the funkness but before I jerked!! This protected a fairly run 10c section.') All funky aluminum hangers replaced, too."
...but it being April and all, I haven't verified this personally.
The South Flank routes are located in the tree-filled area in the center of the photo.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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