Euro Trash, Drug Dome, Base 5.10c or 5.8 A0

 
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (1.0)
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1 star: 100%  (1)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:08am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Matt's

climber
Jun 7, 2013 - 09:59pm
 
terrible, contrived climb, I wish someone would chop it...
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del cross

climber
Sep 10, 2017 - 10:08pm
 
Here's one alternative. It's mostly easy scrambling with about a pitch and a half of moderate climbing. There is one move that might be 5.8. This variation starts farther up to the right than Eurotrash. Maybe this is the same as Trashmaster or something slightly different, I'm not sure. Basically you keep going until the gully gets steep. Then you head up the slabs until you feel it's a good time to rope up (we did it on a pretty big ledge). The first pitch was about 220 feet but could be easily simulclimbed since the bottom is about 5.2. The second pitch was short. If the goal is to get to Hobbit Book without doing the usual hike this is a fast and simple way to get there.

Here are a few annotated photos:








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schaffner

Trad climber
Sep 16, 2012 - 11:38pm
 
no rappel chains/rings at least on the first two anchors
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fishtrap

Trad climber
Bass Lake, CA
Jun 7, 2013 - 09:46pm
 
Climbed this route on 6/7/2013. This is a great option for a quick approach to Hobbit Book and a way to get in 4 additional pitches of climbing. When you top out it's about a 2 min scramble straight over to the base of HB.

There was a pretty good amount of snow coming up to the base and it was pretty steep and a little sketchy in worn out trail running shoes. I wonder what this looks like on a normal snow year. We got an early start so it would have been fine by 9am or 10am once things warmed up a bit. The snow cone put us pretty high up on the first pitch and we easily linked pitches 1 & 2 w/ a 70M rope.

Pulling through the 10.C crux on pitch 3 is super easy. Will post a TR and a few pics later.
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Greg Barnes

climber
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   Jun 7, 2013 - 11:15pm
As I said in the description, "easily the most contrived route in Tuolumne."

I gave it one star as a 10c and 2 stars as a 5.8A0. Don't know why it's listed as 5 star here. But the position and scenery are 4-star regardless, on a big apron of granite leading right up to Hobbit Book.

The snow field can be HUGE after heavy winters. I've been turned around by snow in that area both early and very late season (November a few years ago trying to get up to Nazgul Wall).
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yosemite 5.9

climber
santa cruz
Sep 8, 2017 - 05:48pm
 
This is a fun route and a good way to get to the Hobbit above. Yes, it is very well bolted. But wishing that someone would "chop it" is arrogant and inconsiderate of climbers who might like it. Variety in routes is good. Not all routes need to be risky. The photo shown on this website is not correct for this route. Look at the book for a better description. Mostly this route is edging on somewhat slippery knobs. Climbing up beats walking up.
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Matt's

climber
Sep 9, 2017 - 08:10am
 
I think you misread my post.

I suggested that someone get rid of this route because it is the most contrived route I've ever climbed (still true, four years later!). It also has too many bolts, but that's a different issue.

It uses super-tight bolting to try to force you to climb the hardest part of the slab, even when easier climbing is only a few feet left or right. The only reason anyone ever climbs this is an approach to hobbit book.
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jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Sep 9, 2017 - 09:29am
 
Since you feel the need to Chop Chop go do it big man MATT have at it, talk is cheap.
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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 10, 2017 - 09:30pm
 
Bruce and I did an easier climb just to its right with fewer bolts, so you can use that if you'd like a less contrived approach to Hobbit Book.
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/white-trash/110908187
We also did an easier last pitch to Eurotrash:
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/europop/110906829
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Matt's

climber
Sep 10, 2017 - 09:46pm
 
thanks for the topo clint, I didn't know there were other routes up the slab.
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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 11, 2017 - 09:58am
 
Looks great, Jim.
Your climb is well to the right of Trashmaster.
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Drug Dome, Base - Euro Trash 5.10c or 5.8 A0 - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
OZ continues up and left to the summit while the Gram Traverse follows the roof out right.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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