Just got off this on Monday the 27th. Amazing route living up to its classic status. Also amazing was the fact that no one else joined us on the route that day! A great party from CO reached the base at the same time as us and we had fun being social on the first few belays as they made their way up Dream of Wild Turkeys. Two other parties showed up later to try Turkeys as well.
All the bolts are great (i had 18 draws with me and that seemed more than adequate) The 2nd pitch seems to be getting a lot of traffic as it was significantly more chalked and polished than the pitches above - I'll bet a lot of people do that pitch and bail. A few loose flakes are around so helmets (as in all of Red Rocks I'd think) are a must. Twin 8mm ropes were awesome and made the raps go smoothly - you can just make the ground with 60m ropes from the top of the second pitch helping to avoid a cluster at the 1st anchor.
Prince and Yellow brick down, Turkeys (to the top!) and sour mash to go...
Then there's the more "exciting" routes to the left of POD - anyone know about samurai or that other 10R route?
Just visited RR for the 2008 March spring break. Access to BVC has changed since I last visited in 2004. The 2wd access point seems to be closed off, leaving you to grind around on 4wd roads. We parked early and walked the extra 40 minutes to keep from killing our car. Found out later that the BLM has posted a notice about this temporary closure:
This climb rocks! I think it's a good idea to carry a set of nuts and maybe a small cam or two. I got a little sketched on I think the 3rd pitch (just a hair run-out for me and if 5.10 is your leading limit).
The BV alternative access is temporary during the renovation of the parking lot near Hwy 160. After June of 2008 the 2wd access to BV will be open again. You can view a map of the alternative access into BV on Mountainproject.com under the NV forum. If you would like a PDF map of the alternative access sent to you please email me at jed_botsford at blm.gov and I will send it to you electronically.
Ill be heading to RR next week to do some climbing. First time there. We wanted to do this route. We also wanted to try out some gear for our up-coming Zion trip. Would it be feasable, and acceptable, to bring a haulbnag and ledge and stay up on the wall that night while on this route? Is the wall steep enough to haul a bag up without fu$king up the holds?
Just trying to get some good systems training in while climbing.
Although it's fairly steep, yes, you would likely damage features on this route if you hauled a bag. Not recommended. If you and your partner have dusted off a lot of multi-pitch trad routes and are quick with setting up a good lead changeover anchor with several pieces, you won't need to practice with hauling and such. And if you aren't, you're hosed anyway even if you try to practice. Just climb, no need to practice aid systems on free routes, you'll do fine.
alright sounds good,
ya, I got a new ledge and bag. Getting ready to hit Zion and then the Valley. My partner and I were thinking of starting late late in the day, haul the bag and ledge up and practice setting up the ledge and different hauling systems. I understand this is a busy route, but were hoping to start after all the parties got off the ground. No worries though, we'll just climb as usual and work on it later. Thanks for the info gents. . . see you out there!
too busy and a straigtforward fast route for a haul bag. Go to Rainbow wall instead. aid routes there.
Prince of Darkness is a classic bolted face route up Black Velvet Wall.
Photo: Greg Barnes
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