Hogwild, Lover's Leap, Hogwild 5.7

 
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Lake Tahoe, California, USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.8)
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Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 75%  (3)
3 star: 25%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 20, 2012 - 02:54pm
 
I just got this beta from a SuperTopo user:

A couple of notes on Lovers Leap. Hogwild now has 6 bolts. First is to the left of the right facing corner, 4 are on the slab between the corner and the small step, one above the step. A little run out above the step. The crack is completely filled with dirt and vegetation. Canít place gear without a shovel.
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Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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   Jul 5, 2012 - 12:19pm
Bring lots of small wires and tcu's to sew up the seams between bolts. Good climbing and not too run out if you have the right gear. I placed an offset nut or two in the flaring seams as well.
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Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
May 13, 2012 - 10:16pm
 
Fun route. If you don't feel like coming back down, or don't have second rope, it's no big deal to keep going and scramble up a dirty second pitch to the top.
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Petch

Gym climber
knapsack crack
Nov 2, 2010 - 01:37pm
 
There is a good piece of gear between every bolt. An orange metolius after the first, and a medium stopper after the second.
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Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Nov 1, 2010 - 06:29pm
 
Ha! There is a move or two down low move past the second bolt! We'll call it 5.7d. Run out after that, but pretty easy. By the time you reach that crack it is all over.
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Ralphy

Trad climber
Green Honda Element
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   Oct 31, 2010 - 02:23am
Very fun climb! Well sustained and a little bit runout on small gear. The distance between the 2nd and 3rd bolts seems a little far at first but it's not gnar. Biggest pro I was able to place was a #4 TCU. Fun flake section near top!
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Simmeron

Trad climber
Reno, NV
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   Jan 7, 2010 - 02:45pm
This climb made me sweat a bit, mainly because it was more stout than I thought it would be. If Corrugation is 5.7 and Surrealistic is the same, I'll rate this climb 5.7+. The bolts are close enought that you shouldn't get hurt if you fall, but the second and third bolts are far enough away that they made me think if I was really in for the climb. Then I grabbed the long flake at the end and breathed a sigh of relief.

You probably want to be confident on 5.8 before you jump on this climb. Technically not as hard as "Better Than Bacon" but definitely way more sustained.

Also, our 70m BARELY reached the ground. Be sure to tie knots in the end. Next time I'll bring extra slings and extend the anchor.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 25, 2003 - 11:04am
 
The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page

The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here


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Lover's Leap, Hogwild - Hogwild 5.7 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Hogwild is route E
Photo: Chris McNamara
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