harmonydoc
Trad climber
Rohnert Park, CA
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Followed 5/31/08 (I'm about a 5.8 trad leader, 5.10 follower). Sweet fingerlocks in the corner, mostly sustained 10a, more finesse than strength required. Pulled through crux on gear without much trouble. Very fun!
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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The first two pitches of this are really good, the last 5.0/4th just is. The first pitch starts out steep and has good jams/dike/cills and protection, I imagine that it would also be a good alternative start to Haystack. The second pitch is awesome fingers and seams/slab/rand smearing and has a boulder problem crux that feels like V4 to me and involves smearing on a vertical wall and pressing onto the right wall in order to get a foot up and grab a decent gaston with your left hand. I fell a few times at the crux (jacking up my ankle the second time). I lowered down to give it another go on TR and again I fell. Usually I don't struggle this hard on .11b but I got humbled on this route for sure. Be sure to bring stoppers and triples of blue through yellow alien and a black or two, I had my indian creek rack so 4sets of the small stuff (used every green alien). The crux took a Black Blue alien hybrid and a #4 stopper a few feet higher, you could place gear of a different size if you like, but it will be micro. The crack is a bit grassy in spots and needs a bit of cleaning, but where there are locks they are usually pretty good, where there aren't you have to rand smear and move quickly to the next lock. It's worth doing even if you can't pull the crux as the climbing is fuuuuunnn.
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