Harding Route, Keeler Needle 5.10c

 
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High Sierra, California USA

  • Currently 3.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.8)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
5 Total Ratings
5 star: 20%  (1)
4 star: 40%  (2)
3 star: 40%  (2)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
ninjah

Big Wall climber
a van down by the river
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   Aug 3, 2011 - 08:41pm
Did the route in 12 hours, 8/2/11, and it was amazeing! stout and phyical, there was big rains on the route two days prior and the 2nd pitch lost a good flake jug as my partner seconded that very dirty roof pitch!
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guycan

Trad climber
flagstaff
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   Aug 28, 2008 - 04:33pm
I'd wanted this route/peak for a long time, and was very pleased to finally make it happen.

ck out the video segment on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zFT1g_VSQ8

we climbed it as a party of three, simul climbing easier pitches and simul belaying followers on the more difficult ones. overall, I found it easier than I'd expected; a #4 Camalot is useful but not absolutely necessary- I led the crux pitch without using it or the #5 friend we carried.
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Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
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   Aug 22, 2008 - 12:50pm
The route is good , but has a lot of loose rock and can be dangerous if other party climbing above you.
p4 - 1st wide-right side in
p8 second wide - left side in
p9 - scariest on the route-Upper part of this pitch is rotten crack ~5.8/5.7 where holds can brock and protection is bad.
Highly recomended to fix the rope over the snow field the night before the climbing
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fairweather

Mountain climber
Roseville, CA
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   Oct 4, 2007 - 08:23pm
I agree. I climbed this route a couple years ago, and thought it was great. The OW climbing was way overblown, and the rock quality was generally very good. Given the position of the climb, and the overall quality, I think it is a classic.
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clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
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   Oct 2, 2007 - 08:34pm
This route was awesome. I would recomend it to anyone up for a classic- the rock was really not as bad as everyone pisses about. A # 4 covers the bolt ladder be brought and used a #5 on mannnyyy pitches-I would recomend it. It was a long day and pretty physical but It was not the horror I was anticipating. The crux is not the strait sided ow you may have imagined and the stemming and rock texture make for generally solid squeezing- medium pieces and fixed gear pro the crux OW- but many Ows await but when you get into them they are more fun than strenious. Don't avoid this route because of the ow you might be plesently suprised. If you did the Red Dihedral easy than your likely ready-but you probably want to do some sustained alpine crack route prior fer body endurance checks. Need more info write me. If you want an added push go car to car.

Crochie

Now where could one find a topo to Day Needle??
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jun 23, 2007 - 01:52pm
 
Trip report with photos here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=403582
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 9, 2005 - 10:16am
 
There is a great topo and photo of the nearby Crimson Wall on Keeler Needle:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=104036&f=35&b=0
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Sep 24, 2005 - 12:32pm
 
The offwidth crux is different. a little less secure but not as grunty.

Overall, the main difference between the two is magnitude. keeler is a few hundred feet taller. the approach is bigger. you are climbing at a higher elevation. The rock is not as good so you are a little more spooked.
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crackedribs

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Sep 19, 2005 - 03:54pm
 
Could anyone provide some feed back in how much more difficult this route is then the Southwest face of Mt. Conness?
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Jun 11, 2004 - 12:02pm
 
Here is a trip report with photos:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=25779

Here are some more photos put to music in a QuickTime slide show:

http://www.supertopo.com/forumphotos/keeler1003.mov

the file is 2.7mb big so may take a little while to download on a slower connection. You need the free Quick Time Player to view this slide show. To get it go here: http://www.apple.com/quicktime/download/
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Keeler Needle - Harding Route 5.10c - High Sierra, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The route as seen from the approach.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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