Take a pass on this one. Much better routes to do in the Canyon.
The climbing is definitely demanding but just isn't that enjoyable. That is except for the crux 5.12 brown arete pitch which almost makes the lower "approach" pitches worth it.
The first pitch felt really really hard for 10d (maybe easier if over 5'8") and the next pitch was ridiculously hard for 5.12a/b. Again maybe this pitch was just really reachy. 3rd pitch was ok and seamed reasonable for the grade though pretty sandy at the crux. 4th pitch had moments of promise but marred by a couple loose blocks and poor rock. The crux 5th pitches takes a cool line out the arete on smaller petina holds with lots of bolts. First bolt is quite loose on this pitch.
We bailed after the 5th pitch as our stoke for the route had totally vanished. Up until that point a double set of cams would of been fine.
Photo: Bryan Bird
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