Gentlemans Agreement, Three Marys IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1


Zion National Park, Utah, USA

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   Oct 21, 2009 - 04:48pm
Awesome route! A must do.

Don't let the rating intimidate you. We found the climbing to be a lot easier than expected. We thought it stacked up more like this 12+, 5.12-, 5.11+, 5.12-, 5.10,5.10,5.10.

The OW's up high don't require much OW climbing at all. Mostly liebacking, stemming and face holds. Could leave one of the #6's in the car and get away with one. Two #5's would still be nice though.

We only brought one 70m rope and found the rappelling to be easy. We were lowering down one end of the rope to haul our pack with, which worked great for all but one pitch where the rope wasn't long enough to reach the lower belay. A little climbing with the pack wasn't a problem.

Most of the anchors/bolts are in good shape, though there are a couple of star-drives left at anchors and one on the first pitch.

Not a route to do when the temps are high, the first pitch would be hard to do in direct sunlight with temps in the upper 70's or higher.

Technically a bit harder than Moonlight but an overall easier day. On par or better than Shear Lunacy as far as quality goes.
Three Marys - Gentlemans Agreement IV 5.13b or 5.9 C1 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Bryan Bird
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