Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall, East Temple IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1


Zion National Park, Utah, USA

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Trad climber
Nov 29, 2009 - 04:16pm
This IS a great route...A perfect hand crack pitch, an out-there lieback, fingercracks, chimneys and offwidths on exceptional rock. The view looking down on the Fang Spire is amazing.

I thought the approach was more like 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Social climber
Nov 28, 2009 - 12:24pm
This is one of the best routes I've put up in the park, period.

Strangely, owing the approach I guess, it has not seen too much traffic.

I've read ridiculous stories of people taking 4 hours to get to the base. On the FA we had it down to under two hours. Drive to the second (or third?) switchback towards the tunnel, drop down to Pine Creek and up a gulley to west of climb. I don't recall it being a huge deal.

You don't want to miss 'The Cavity' chimney pitch, 2nd from top. It is one of the most thrilling in the park, and well protected to boot.
East Temple - Lovelace AKA The Fang Wall IV 5.12+ or 5.10 C1 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Bryan Bird
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