Northeast Buttress, Angels Landing IV 5.10+


Zion National Park, Utah, USA

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Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 30, 2009 - 07:55pm
And come to think of it Conrad, didn't you do the FFA with Andi Orgler?

Wasn't the ascent with Deuce part of the first enchainment (with Touchstone)?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 30, 2009 - 07:53pm
The "FA" listed was likely actually the third ascent.

As I understand it from Bridwell, the FA was by frenchman Patrick Cordier a decade earlier.

Oct 28, 2009 - 01:43pm
Fun route with a great position. Had wanted to do this one for awhile and finally got around to it. A Zion classic just as the book says. Be warned though this isn't a Zion classic in the Moonlight way. It's a zion classic in the alpine sort of way. Expect some loose rock and a couple run-out sections but nothing to crazy.

The first few pitches are relatively straight forward. We used the first two recommended belays and then opted for a full 60m pitch for the third pitch. In retrospect we should of just belayed at the recommend spot. The belay for the 4th pitch is two bolts which isn't noted on the topo.

The 5th pitch is accurately described and pretty straight forward given the guide book beta. There is a fixed pin and bolt that protects the crux of pitch 5, a #5 is also needed on this pitch. Really cool pitch! The belay ends on a huge ledge with great views. The belay takes smaller cams but can be backed up 30ft to the left by 5 BOLTS!

We then did one LONG 60+ meter pitch to a ledge just below what is marked as the top of pitch 8 on the topo. The belay was a good bush and #4 and #5 camalot, other options probably exist as well. We then skirted right into a 4th class gully that got progressively easier.

We only brought one #4 and thought this was enough. The topo calls for 2. A #5 is pretty mandatory and got used numerous times on the route.

Overall a recommend route.

I've posted some photos here:
Angels Landing - Northeast Buttress IV 5.10+ - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Eric Draper
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.