Jamcrack is an excellent route! The 1st pitch (5.7) of Jamcrack is fun and enjoyable climbing and gets you warmed up for the 2nd pitch. The 1st pitch is polished especially for the first 15-20 feet or so but the hand and foot jams are solid and secure. The 2nd pitch (5.9) of Jamcrack starts off with nice 5.7 hand jams then transitions to 5.8 thin hands. The crux of the 2nd pitch is the 5.9 fingers section while smearing your feet for about 20-25 feet with good pro. At the top of the 2nd pitch are great views of Half Dome and Sentinel Rock.
This route is definitely a classic for a reason. Someone tightened the nuts on the second anchor. As of mid-January, every route to the left and right of Jamcrack is running with water, but Jamcrack itself is dry as a bone, and even on a holiday weekend, there was no one around.
Climbed this awesome route on Saturday. The nuts on the hangers are loose at the second belay. No biggie just need wrenched down. There was a pesky squriel on the first belay ledge pushing small rocks over the edge onto climbers below!
I can't believe that the supertopo recommends NOT to link the pitches due to the 20' traverse. It's about a 4' traverse sideways on a 4' ledge. I put a 2' sling below the ledge and the same above. It was a GREAT single pitch, and not doing it as one just backs the climb up for others thus wasting their time. The "10c" slab move where the two topropable 10s split felt like easy 5.9. All the climbing on that wall was great!
Minor correction to the Supertopo that actually has more to do with Lemon than with Jamcrack, but Lemon doesn't have its own page: Despite the Supertopo's statement to the contrary, it's actually very easy to rappel from the Lazy Bum anchors (on top of Jamcrack's first pitch) diagonally down to the Lemon anchors if you want to set a TR on that climb (which is quite a bit of fun, even though it's far too short).
I did this climb with a very cool, experienced climber I met in camp 4 from Denmark (Thanks Tom, if you read this). I led the 1st pitch and followed the 2nd. I loved the route. The lead was so good for my jamming technique and following the 5.9 really helped my confidence in crack climbing. We set up topropes for the 10s and I belayed him while he danced up them time and time again.
The normal parking area for this climb, The Lower Yosemite Falls parking, is closed permanently. This means that to climb an routes and Five Open Books or Sunnyside Bench you need to park either at the Yosemite Lodge or Camp 4.
ah, the days of summer are upon us.. nice weather, long lines. I counted 10 people here the other day. IMHO, P1 is really just there so you can climb P2. The day is not complete without a TR of Bummer/Lazy Bum (I did these this winter when they were wet, talk about fun!) Dont forget the directional for the second at the top of P1.
May 15, 2001 - 10:06pm
Here's piece of beta that can make this route a little more enjoyable for the more advanced climbers out there (who probably shouldn't even be on this route in the first place, but hey, we all like climbing easy routes sometimes).
The first and second pitches can be linked together (with 60m rope) by leaving a long (4 feet) runner where the route jogs out to the right near the top of the first pitch. From there, run it way out until you get a few moves above the belay ledge and put another long runner (2 feet) on your first piece above the ledge. This can be DANGEROUS if you don't know what you are doing or aren't a good enough climber, otherwise it lets you get a solid 150 feet of climbing without stopping for a belay -- this, of course, assumes the route is not clogged by a couple of hundred newbies like it always is. <smirk>
Anyway, now combine the link-up with a simul-rap off the route with two 60m ropes or two simul-raps with one rope, completing the route in mere minutes, and watch the newbies gasp in amazement!
This was one of my first valley hand cracks and still stands out in my memory. The first moves challenged my jamming technique while the polished upper moves on Pitch 1 challenged my head. The Pitch 2 is definitely harder and more classic than Pitch 1 and well worth doing. The anchor at the end of Pitch 1 offers a unique opportunity to toprope some difficult 5.10 climbs, Bummer and Lazy Bum will challenge your lieback and jamming technique.
Mill Valley, CA
Apr 15, 2001 - 12:24pm
The first pitch is fun but the last 10-12 feet ruined it for me. The crack at this point splits and neither is great. I felt like the climb ended at this point. However, the second pitch is well worth the last 10 feet of the first pitch. If you only have one pitch left in you for the day, make the second pitch your climb. Great pro, fun moves, hand cracks, finger cracks, a bit of a lay back and the begining of some exposure make this a wonderful climb. The only thing that could make this climb better would be thirteen more pitches!!!
Jamcrack is the line in the right.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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