(In reply to some of the comments below) - the third pitch anchor has been replaced with new bolts / rappel rings so it's no longer dodgy.
Make sure you do not pass by the first pitch belay - it's natural to keep going up the corner once you're there, I totally missed the belay ledge on the left (somewhat inobvious, it's on the same height as the ancient 1/4" bolt, clearly marked on the topo if you pay attention). That protection bolt isn't actually needed these days (can also place bomber TCU at the same height). The lower "5.10a" felt not much easier than the 10d to me, perhaps sustained 5.10c for the first pitch is more accurate.
Very windy and cold this weekend, crux 11b crack was wet, but looks really damn hard even when dry (pulled on gear myself). Second pitch 10d also fairly tricky stemming affair. Also note, in winter the route goes in the shade around 10-11am, so unless you go really early (and then the ambient temperature is cold), plan on climbing in the shade and bring puffy for belaying...
first pitch is sustaned crack climbing, about 5.10c, the second pitch is very cool stemming a little harder, but the third pitch is the bissnass, but a 60 m rope won't make it for the rap to 2nd pitch anchor,70m will, than a 100 ft rap, than 150ft, so leave the second rope on the first pitch ledge if raping, but take the 70m rope for the third pitch anchor that is 3 nuts and a slung rock point! no bolts! and no pitons!
I just got this beta from a supertopo user: The third anchor on Moratorium is not very good. I belayed higher up, just after the akward flare(bad anchor, if I was gonna to do it again I would link pitches 3 and 4.) . I also think the 2. pitch's 10d is much much harder than the first one. Maybe the first pitch is more like 10c, and the third 11a?
did the route at the end of august in the late afternoon. pitch 1 and 2 beautiful with amazing moves (great stemming the last meters of p.2!. aided the 11b crux lieback, but my daughter 13 years old did it.......maybe the little fingers, maybe she's better than me (sigh)!!) the two pins of belay 3 are missing: only a caos of cordins and nuts on a smooth rock not so good. last pitch is a little scary but not so bad, and you can enjoy the path under the east wall (we did it whit the moon: it was really worthy!)
take some extra small cams.
Climbed this route last weekend (Sept. 15) and had a blast. It has some of the cleanest corners in the Valley, on par with The Good Book or Oz. We started early in the morning which was probably a mistake. The route is in the sun until early afternoon and the base really cooks. Bring double and triples of all your small/medium cams. You'll find the 00 tcu and smaller (new Wild Country zero cams) very handy.
The 10a section on the first pitch is very sustained (as the topo notes) so milk every rest you can get, because you will be tired by the time you get to the 10d section. Pitch 2 doesn't end until you are standing on the ledge. Don't forget those micro cams! There were two fixed stoppers on the crux of the third pitch which really helped since its difficult to hang around and place gear. Two 60m ropes will just get you down to the first belay from the top of the third.
The following anchor conditions are provided by <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/'> The American Safe Climbing Assn.</a> Please support the ASCA. so that they can continue to replace dangerous anchor bolts on classic climbs throughout the United States. Find out how to help at <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/help.html'>www.safeclimbing.org</a>
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Moratorium - 2 bolts replaced by Joel Ager and ASCA on 10/99
Belays 1 & 2 have two 3/8" bolts. Belays up higher are OK. Protection bolt on pitch 1 is a poor 1/4 incher.
Moritorium is positioned under El Capitan.
Photo: Todd Snyder
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