The Tube, Pat and Jack Pinnacle 5.11a

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

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crackaholic

climber
Oct 10, 2011 - 01:03am
 
angry, aggressive bees at the top of this climb as of 10/9/11. viciously attacked the leader, then myself as i cleaned. i left two biners on top just to get down quicker.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 8, 2009 - 01:49pm
 
Rockfall has occurred in the area between Skinheads, Underclingon, and The Tube during the first week in March 2009. Many large 2-4 ton blocks have ravaged the base of these three routes. In addition numerous trees were broken off or scarred by rocks that tumbled at least 100 feet down the hill form the base. I wouldn't recommend climbing in the area for at least a few months. A large 3 x 5 foot boulder landed right where you would belay for this climb.
Matt

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
May 19, 2003 - 04:30pm
 
Super cool climbing- Karl's beta is probably pretty good (except for the psycho part about the tevas!).

The crux protects well w/ a range or aliens (red-green) and I used a blue up higher, though it was a marginal placement. You can go up and check out the holds or place gear and then downclimb pretty easily to a nice rest and ponder the moves or summon courage.


My only advice:
Don't get tunnel vision after the crux and space out on the good feet you are headed for out left, if you do you will find that the gear gets bad in a rush and the corner is rather insecure (at best).

The business part of the climb was soaking wet on 5/18/03.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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   May 6, 2003 - 12:40am
You're on a beta page so here it is. You can lieback or jam the first 5.9 section of crack. If you lieback, don't waste time getting to the knob rest 20 feet up. Then you can stay in the crack, or place a piece and climb around left on knobs (easy) until it takes you back to the crack. Again, you can stay in the crack or climb around on knobs again. The knobs are easy but then the crux becomes getting established in the crack and oriented in the lieback/chimney position. Place a piece and go for the rest (knob on the left after a thank god finger lock. In the crux, you want to focus on edging and smearing your feet on the face and pressing your back against the dihedral. If done properly, it takes almost no arms strength. The smears are so good, I've done it in tevas with climbing rubber on them. (also took a long whip once due to not getting it right. If you make it to the knob, you won't need more beta!

Nice route. You can swing over and move the rope to underclingon if you like.

Peace

karl

The route was wet as of 5-5-2003 so we top roped it after doing the 10d face to the right.
Pat and Jack Pinnacle - The Tube 5.11a - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.