Rockfall has occurred in the area between Skinheads, Underclingon, and The Tube during the first week in March 2009. Many large 2-4 ton blocks have ravaged the base of these three routes. In addition numerous trees were broken off or scarred by rocks that tumbled at least 100 feet down the hill form the base. I wouldn't recommend climbing in the area for at least a few months. A large 3 x 5 foot boulder landed right where you would belay for this climb.
Super cool climbing- Karl's beta is probably pretty good (except for the psycho part about the tevas!).
The crux protects well w/ a range or aliens (red-green) and I used a blue up higher, though it was a marginal placement. You can go up and check out the holds or place gear and then downclimb pretty easily to a nice rest and ponder the moves or summon courage.
My only advice:
Don't get tunnel vision after the crux and space out on the good feet you are headed for out left, if you do you will find that the gear gets bad in a rush and the corner is rather insecure (at best).
The business part of the climb was soaking wet on 5/18/03.
You're on a beta page so here it is. You can lieback or jam the first 5.9 section of crack. If you lieback, don't waste time getting to the knob rest 20 feet up. Then you can stay in the crack, or place a piece and climb around left on knobs (easy) until it takes you back to the crack. Again, you can stay in the crack or climb around on knobs again. The knobs are easy but then the crux becomes getting established in the crack and oriented in the lieback/chimney position. Place a piece and go for the rest (knob on the left after a thank god finger lock. In the crux, you want to focus on edging and smearing your feet on the face and pressing your back against the dihedral. If done properly, it takes almost no arms strength. The smears are so good, I've done it in tevas with climbing rubber on them. (also took a long whip once due to not getting it right. If you make it to the knob, you won't need more beta!
Nice route. You can swing over and move the rope to underclingon if you like.
The route was wet as of 5-5-2003 so we top roped it after doing the 10d face to the right.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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