Knuckleheads, Pat and Jack Pinnacle 5.10b

 
Search
Go

Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
Sort 5 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
What is route "beta"?
Submit Beta on this Route
Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.0)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
1 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Nov 26, 2007 - 09:37am
Very nice. They way we did it, it seems you must clip the 3rd bolt, then back down a couple feet, go a little left, and pull the "5.10b slopey" crux. Then move back onto the arete for the "5.10b arete" crux at the 7th-8th bolt. Then move left to the 9th bolt.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
dude

Novice climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Apr 27, 2002 - 12:51pm
 
i know since the mcdevitts did the new line with good bolts and the trough bolts sucked until last year (yep, asca, just checked their site)

actually knuckleheads probably would've got chopped if it was someone else on the FA or the new line wasn't so good

the right finish (trough) is more run-out, maybe you did something completely different?

you go up clip a bolt, then move right at 50', clip a couple, then move totally around the arete to a couple more bolts up super-steep knobs/mantels to the top

knuckleheads clips those same bolts at 50', then moves left past maybe 3 more bolts, a bit run-out but no biggy (just don't fall at that last move into the groove)

maybe you went left and did a new variation?
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Jason

Novice climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Apr 25, 2002 - 09:48pm
 
Sorry for the mixup, but I don't understand how you know which is which Dude? Staying to the right is consistent with the moves on the arete below and has more bolts. Going left continues to be runnout like the lower section on Trough and has similar moves.

To suppliment the pro on Trough you can bring a double runner for a knob about 45'. But yes, it is VERY runout (55+' grounder potential without the knob sling and 45' with!), yet that's not indicated in Reids guide, so beware. I did this climb thinking it was Knuckheads (serves me right for not looking at the guidebook). I was a little freeked, but it was easy terrain. Careful of the semi-loose jug at the bolt, yikes. Not ready to blow yet, but may get really loose over the years, or with a big pull. Actually I was glad I did it, it's a good route (2, maybe 3 stars), just be careful.
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
dude

Novice climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Apr 25, 2002 - 06:37pm
 
actually Knuckleheads crosses Trough, the line is correct

Trough ain't no sport climb, you clip 4 or 5 bolts in 120' including only one in the first 50' bolts are good now at least
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Jason

Novice climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Apr 24, 2002 - 03:57pm
 
The picture on the beta page is inaccurate. The red line on the picture shows to work left of the arete about 2/3rds the way up, when in fact you should climb the right side of the arÍte. The left side is another 10b sport climb called Trough of Justice. The two climbs do share the same anchor (pair of ASCA bolts).
Was this beta helpful to you? Yes | No
Pat and Jack Pinnacle - Knuckleheads 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
Submit Beta on this Route
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.