Did this climb 9/17/11. The first half was incredibly fun, the lieback is perfect in the beginning. And the undercling you get to is really solid. Just smear with your feet. Definitely want to make sure you have at least 2, 4'' and 3'' cams . After the undercling slide in a #2 BD and your solid. The last half of the climb wasnt' that great, a little loose and didn't feel too solid as far as gear. Just but in some nuts and don't fall. There was an old bolt towards the top that looked good. Ive never seen an anchor on such a small tree but it felt pretty solid.
I was curious if anyone knows a convenient way to clean your own route on a undercling traverse. I was jumping and swinging every way it felt weird.
Did this climb today 3/7/04, classic! but a bit short. Enjoyed the bottom layback, wasn't that pumpy. And eats big pro no problem. I had doubles of everything from 1 to 4.5. The rock has a friction texture which gives your feet a nice purchase and allows for body smears. Getting gear in wasn't an issue. The crack starts wide and narrows nicely at the top. About the time you are getting tired of liebacking you can stick a foot in and get a bomber hand jam and life is good.
Up to the roof/corner, it also eats gear. Today it was a tad moist on the rock under the roof, but the undercling is "totally killer" with a beautiful positive edge and features hidden inside, feel around for the best hands in there! keep your feet high. I found enough dry spots for my feet to make it across.
Pulling the corner is also fun, great hands out there, look for small edges for your foot and believe in friction! The corner to the bay tree is much easier. We cleaned out a huge number of old slings, and rapped off. The rating here is much more in line with the Valley (it is an "old school climb").
Photo: Chris McNamara
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