A little linking beta, cause this one really benefits from a 70m rope:
the first two pitches, up to the first huge ledge, are exactly 70m. The next two also link together in exactly 70m to the huge ledge. Then a team can go to the top with a little simul-climbing. Way sweet!
Some very fun face climbing on this one. I would highly recommend it if itís more high profile neighbors are busy. While all of the climbing is easy, there are some hard to protect spots so be aware. On the third pitch there was a 40-50í section where all I got in was a green alien (bomber), it definitely made things a bit more comfy.
On the second pitch I think I inadvertently went around the crux. Near the top of the pitch there is a short chalked traverse that leads to a slung tree. This way ended up being really easy and after looking at the topo again, I think straight up might be the cooler way. Just something to keep in mind.
I don't know why more people don't climb this route. We wanted something easy and quick before heading home yesterday morning. While the usual crowds are lined up for After Seven and Nutcracker there is no one on this climb. Perhaps not as classic as Nutcracker but very fun climbing.
"Just Do It" is an easy and short single pich 5.10 just next door that is worth doing before heading back to the car.
Photo: Todd Snyder
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.