After Seven, Manure Pile Buttress 5.8

 
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
7 Total Ratings
5 star: 14%  (1)
4 star: 71%  (5)
3 star: 14%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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   Sep 29, 2011 - 01:21am
the 150' indicated is the height of the variation, the height of the whole route is like 6 or 7 hundred feet. It the face crack about 30 feet to the right of the after 6 corner.
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CragRat 4x4

Big Wall climber
Simi Valley Ca
Sep 28, 2011 - 05:37pm
 
Height of route: 150'
This has to be wrong ...
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altieboo

Social climber
Das Blase
Jan 29, 2009 - 04:09pm
 
Did this route Jan 28, 09. Great time. My first multi-pitch that I led the whole thing. Took my roommate up it. His first multi-pitch and second time outdoors. He had a blast. No falls. Solid the whole way through. I did the last pitch in the dark with no headlamp. Pretty awesome.

The descent was a little hard to find in the dark but real straight forward once we found it.
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Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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   Jun 26, 2008 - 04:58pm
I thought the 5.8 crux was very well protected, with an orange Metolius cam a few feet left of my knees. Some apparently climb a few feet higher than I did before traversing right, but there was a good foothold where I stepped right, then up. The move didn't seem any harder than a few awkward portions of the crack below. The two pitches protected very well. We finished on After Six.
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maestro8

Trad climber
San Hoser, CA
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   May 12, 2008 - 02:14pm
I heard some climbers on the shuttle saying this route was just as good as Nutcracker, and they were right. The first pitch is well protected and shouldn't be any trouble for the seasoned 5.8 leader. There are a few polished moves but nothing scary. I had a ball with the mixture of crack and face!

The intermediate pitches were cruisers with a few fun crux moves here and there. The wide 5.5 crack made me stop and think, but it wasn't much trouble once I got on it... what a cool feature! There are some runouts here and there but they're always in easy territory. Even if there were opportunities for pro, I probably wouldn't have placed gear.

We found a variation at the finish that had me howling with joy... we followed a 5.7 slabby crack (part of the zig-zag variation) to a leftward-arching roof. The roof offered but a few reachy fingerlocks (that eat up ~.75" cams) and side-pulls while the feet were smears on the slab. Looks hard, climbs easy, goes at 5.8. Do it! Wow!

If you stretch out a 60m rope, you can do this climb in 5 pitches with ledges at every belay.
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Matt Sarad

climber
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   May 11, 2005 - 09:48pm
I led this off the couch with borrowed shoes and harness on my birthday about five years ago. I hadn't lead anything in the previous three years and 5.8 was my limit. I found the first pitch to be slick , almost greasy. I plugged in every piece of borrowed gear I had. My buddy, who graciously accompanied me, complimented me on my fine lead, after he quit laughing at my confusion over placing various sized cams every which way.

I found the upper pitches to be run out and scary, but climbing them in running shoes since the borrowed shoes hurt so
much may have contributed.
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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
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   Apr 13, 2001 - 01:09am
I underestimated this very good climb. After not climbing off the ground for a while, I walked up to this climb expecting to cruise it. Instead, I found myself plugging as much pro as possible and hesitantly moving through the crux. Be confident on 5.8 before heading up on this one.
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Manure Pile Buttress - After Seven 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
After Seven is the starting variation on the right.
Photo: Todd Snyder
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