harmonydoc
Trad climber
Rohnert Park, CA
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TR'ed this last weekend. Got on the 5.9- way using the tree (too short to reach the good fingerlock straight up). Got spanked on the offwidth, ended up liebacking to finish. Fun stuff!
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drc
Trad climber
Durham, NC
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Don't get your helmet stuck at the very top;)
The pin at the start of the fist section is total mank (eyehole cracked and it's moving). However a small stopper fits nicely an inch or so above it. After that just leapfrog 2 3.5 or new style 4s to the top. An orange tcu (long sling) will protect the topout but that's how you get your head stuck.
Remind your second to haul up some water.
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Bill
climber
Durham, NC
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"After the pod I find it easier to climb a bit on the left side of the crack with my left arm pulling on the edge of the crack and my right arm hooked in."
Argh! Last weekend I forgot to try it this way, and hand-stacked it again. Oh well, maybe next time. My 4'10" partner had good fun with the start. Fist stacks got her through the top though.
TM told me he had done this route 150 times.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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This route used to be rated 5.9 but was uprated to 10a for the cruxy moves at the start. There are two ways to start.
One. fingerjam straight up. Being tall helps to get the first locker jams
Two. Start with one foot on the tree to the left and traverse right under the tiny roof to the crack. Much easier, maybe 5.9-
The wide part on top is what spanks most people. If you are short on wide gear, there are a few fixed pins (take sceamers?) on the right during the first 30 feet of fist crack, then, after a wide section, the crack pinches off to #1 or #2 camalot size before getting wide again. You can rest in a pothole pod up and right after a ways before launching into the widest bit. Place a #4 camalot there and you can push it up in front of you if you like. After the pod I find it easier to climb a bit on the left side of the crack with my left arm pulling on the edge of the crack and my right arm hooked in.
If you don't bark on the OW, and its the end of the day, put on some kneepads and a long sleeve shirt and toprope Ahab. You'll sleep well afterwards
Peace
karl
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Sascha
climber
Oakland, CA
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Being 5'5" with small hands, I loved the finger part (though I imagined a small stepladder would be handy to help reach that first fingerlock) and became slightly flummoxed as the crack widened. As follower, I discovered (after whining about my feet) that climbing the upper crack as a lieback felt much easier and certainly less painful than straight-in, although it would have made it tricky to place pro on lead that way.
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Reid
Intermediate climber
Oakland, CA
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This is an awesome route. I found the bottom technical 5.10 section harder then the top of the route. I wouldnt consider the top a true offwidth you just have to find the sweet spots where the crack narrows down just enough to jam your fist. Overall it was a great climb that i am definetly going to do again.
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Andrew
Advanced climber
Oakland, CA
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Killer route but expect to get spanked...the offwidth at the top is certainly the crux. That said there is very little chance that you will fall out of the crack. This is an awesome pitch on which to practice your wide crack skills. You can get by with 2x #3's, 1x 3.5 and 1x #4 if you walk the cams up the crack as you go.
Enjoy
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David
Advanced climber
Oakland, CA
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the wide crack is really quite long and 4 preferably 6 big (ie #3 or 3.5 Camolots) cams are needed for decent protection. #4 Camolots also work but I'll be damned if the two red Friends I lugged up that climb would fit anywhere!
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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I felt the 10a was far easier than the fist/OW up top.
A good climb with lots of wide jamming. One of the first climbs you come to on the approach to the "base routes".
Bring your big cams!
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The base routes are scattered to the left of the SE Buttress.Photo: Chris McNamara
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