Super fun route with really good pro the whole way up. A little slick on the bottom so make sure you get a cam in early just in case. The second half after the mini chimney is really solid and the views you get of el cap are awesome. Super bomb anchor at the top.
Everyone I've ever talked to lieback the route. Due to my height and weight, steep liebacking sucks for me.
However, I found the jams and fingerlocks to be excellent. Coming out of the alcove was a little offhands for me for a couple of feet, but perfect hands follow. If you can't jam it then you must have funky finger/hand sizes OR it may pay to practice over and over on this route until you can.
Haven't climbed alot of routes in the valley, but La Casita right is one of my favorites due to the awesome jams.
I lead this pitch soon after I started climbing and I did the full lieback: fingers wrapped around the edge and feet smeared on the face. It felt like glass, And I was sure I'd skid off at any moment. Putting a piece in was horrible.
A few years later I came back. Armed with more technique, I expected it to go better but still feel sketchy. I was surprised that it now felt positive. What changed? The second time I climbed it just as Karl says.
The following anchor conditions are provided by <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/'> The American Safe Climbing Assn.</a> Please support the ASCA. so that they can continue to replace dangerous anchor bolts on classic climbs throughout the United States. Find out how to help at <A HREF='http://www.safeclimbing.org/help.html'>www.safeclimbing.org</a>
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La Cosita - 2 bolts replaced by ASCA on 6/99 Belay is now bomber.
The base routes are scattered to the left of the SE Buttress.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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