the location can't be beat. kinda like climbing under a serac though. 4 stars for location.
can't get 3 because it's not good climbing, really.
if you continue up, there is some excellent looking hard climbing.
The approach is longer then 20 min. When you reach the base of the nose from the main trail it is another 20 min up and right "semi-steep" As soon as you pass the Gollum Right, you have another 100 yards to go. The climb is straight forward, very little pro which makes it seem a little harder then it is. It is a Yosemite 5.4
My first Valley lead! in 1971, with pitons on my rack... went back and did it in 2001 on the 30th anniversery month, geeze that rock is slick! You can get pro in, and it's still a cool place to be with great views. I wouldn't recommend it though, there are better places in the Valley to climb at that level. On the other hand, you get the feel of the Captain (just hope he doesn't boop you on the head with a rock falling out of the Cyclops).
Not a lot pro on this climb, because of this, it felt like 5.6 runout to me. It is a gully scramble and the climbing is kind of dull but the views from the top are great. On the top you feel like your are half-way up el cap. This is what makes this climb. It takes two raps to get down. The second set of anchors are on the right side of the face. don't miss them.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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