This route was a real old-school 5.9, and while Reid has the unprotected chimney on the second pitch rated 5.7, it climbed more like a 5.8, in my opinion. I'm happy I did it, but it's not on the list to return to anytime soon.
I don't know who chopped them, but I'd agree w/ whoever did that they were totally unnecessary.
I guess offensive is in the eye of the beholder. New bolts next to such a bomber natural anchor at an optional belay on a route that has rap chains installed at the top may offend some...See one of many Cathedral Peak threads for the discussion on unnecessary added bolt rap stations vs. ongoing sling clean-up.
Since the supertopo doesn't show the center route, I thought a beta posting might get folks rapping down the center and keeping new slings from appearing on that pilar. The center route is rad climbing too. Bring a big Friend or be skinny for the second pitch.
why would anyone chop those bolts?
they were far from offensive, and though not necessary, it was apparent to me that they were there to replace the massive and highly visable slew of slings that would often ring that spike-thang.
This was my first trad lead, which I was thrown on by a chuckling valley local. To start with, I didn't need the whole rack, because there's really not much gear. Second, I remember this as having 30 foot runouts in chimneys, followed by some gear in questionable cracks. There is no pro at all in the last chimney/offwidth section, but you are not likely to fall out of the chasm. When I held my breath in this section, I was completely wedged in (6', 190lbs.)
That being said, I'm proud of having this climb as my first lead, but make sure to bring your huevos if this is your first!
Probably pretty safe, but plenty scary if you've never chimneyed before.
The first pitch of this route is really varied and enjoyable (although a bit dirty when I climbed it, 2/04). The main part of the second pitch looks spectacular...but we bailed after the short squeeze chimney.
I realized that even though this is one of the easiest routes at the Cookie, it may not be the best choice for a "warm-up" if you are not accustomed to totally unprotected & continuous chimneying!!
Cool climb - chimneys galore! Chris isn't kidding about the "no pro" comments on the chimneys though - getting out of the second belay area is tricky if you're larger (6' 180lb long legs) because it gets damn ass small! the second chimney is classic Yosemite. Never climber tha far with my hands facing DOWN
2 60m gets you off the top to the base in one rap -
May 2, 2002 - 11:23am
For what its worth I remember loving this route, also remember placing a big bro on the 2nd pitch if my memory is right.
The best part was afterwards talking the Euro who had been hangdogging his way up Catchy. "You are zee crazy man who climb the chimney, why do you climb such crazy chimney."
Up for climbing Vendetta one of these days Matt?
May 1, 2002 - 11:14pm
It's just got short pitches-
I hadn't really heard about it being particularly cool, in fact I'd never heard anything about it at all-
& the cookie is perhaps better known for it's harder routes-
so I was just surprised by how much I enjoied it- that's all.
Well- that & the chimney (2nd pitch) is pretty unusual. I'd say more about it, but I don't want to spoil your adventure...
May 1, 2002 - 06:14pm
Why was it surprising?
Apr 30, 2002 - 07:00pm
This is a surprisingly worthwhile route.
You can easily do it in 2 pitches (2&3 together) but it's worth the extra time to hangout at the 2nd belay.
Great option of your goals at the cookie are crowded- adventurous chimney climbing w/ cool features & good stances
Sep 11, 2001 - 09:52pm
The anchors on top of the second pitch are now bolted with rap rings. This is a great improvement to the mass of slings that used to be around the flake.
This route is really good. Great chimney and hand-crack climbing! Short pitches and excellent rock.
Photo: Todd Snyder
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