Finally climbed the chimney this weekend - fun! If this is 5.6, I hate to see 5.9. I took a #5 with me, and sure glad I did! I walked the #5 up with me to protect 2-3 cruxes. I belayed from 2 fixed slings on a block at the top, then we walked through the back of the chimney, and up right to a rap station. The best part of leading this route is watching your followers suffer!
Churchbowel is definitely Stout for 5.6, but welcome to the Valley.
Ed (of Course) is right about 10.96, actually I think leading is easier then TRing that one but I can't find any 10.96's to go up and do it with me.
Everyone should do this climb, absolutely classic for chimney routes... first time up it I took a while to ponder the moves in the upper part leading to the exit. You've just got to move!
I believe the beta below on 1096 in incorrect, that climb is over on the right side of the Arches Apron below Arches Direct on the wall that demarks the end of the apron. The 5.8 squeeze that comes up under the rap chains is Church Bowl Terrace and has a great hand crack in the back of the squeeze that makes it doable at grade. I have never lead it, top rope on the chains. We did have an owl chick sitting in the back of that chimney watch us rap off the terrace once. Great place.
There are spots where it may feel awkward, but you're never far from good hands and/or feet. It protects very well for a chimney. If you enjoy chimneys I think you'll enjoy this one, else not.
Feb 9, 2002 - 09:18pm
The backside of Church Bowl Chimney is a flared chimney, 1096 (CopSpeak: 'Mental Patient in Custody'). You can toprope this from the top of the Chimney. The rap route is on the outside of the pillar that juts out from the wall; 1096 is the crack separating the pillar from the wall. Galen Rowell's Yosemite Climbs book has pictures of someone (memory loss here) attempting and falling on 1096. I think 1096 was rated 5.9 by Roper.
Nov 5, 2001 - 02:27pm
I climbed in church bowl area this weekend and noticed some misstakes for "Church bowl chimney. The topo indicates that the climb is 60' long and ends at a rapstation common with Book of Revelations and Church Bowl Tree. The chimney is at least 120' and ends nowhere near those other climbs. Also, the topo indicates that the climb ends level with the top-chains for Energizer. So my suggestions for changes are:
1. Draw the pillar hosting energizer higher, but keep the chains for energizer where they are.
2. List Church bowl chimney as 120' or so, ending on top of the energizer pillar.
3. Descent for Church bowl chimney is a three bolt anchor on the right side of the pillar ( when facing the pillar) requiring only a single rope for rappel.
Church Bowl has on of the easiest approaches in the valley.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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