I'll give it one more star.
This is a FUN beginner's route because there's some actual climbing, a nice view from the top (when you go to the end of the ledge), a rap off, and little hazard (now that the tree has fallen ;-)
I took my 9 year old son up several years ago. His first "real" climb. Real defined as: I went up, placing pro along the way and then belayed him from the top. He had to clean the pro and work out the moves for himself. We rapped down. He had a BALL.
The two people who followed me on this route really enjoyed it. However, I didn't think it was all that great. Look for a five foot hand crack right of a huge tree, go up and keep right to find the rap anchors. I went too far up the gully (another twenty feet) to a large bush covered ledge and didn't see how to get down so I went back to the rap anchors before bringing up the two others.
Some exposure at the anchors add a thrill near the end of the climb.
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Oct 4, 2002 - 06:32pm
I'm not sure why the Supertopo has ignored it, but there is a second pitch to this route, fun and interesting. It leads up easy ground to the actual "pantry" and then up to the top of a small pointed tower.
One can also use the first part of this pitch to toprope Energizer. After entering the pantry/alcove, head around and down to the slung tree. From there, you rap to the large flat area and then continue (without pulling your rope) over the side to the chains for Energizer. One 50m rope is just enough. Not a bad idea to tie the ends together.
Feb 9, 2002 - 09:13pm
This gulley/crack is at the very limit of 4th-to-5th class. It's a perfect first route if you've never climbed with ropes before: good pro, low angle, easy and short approach. I freed it in tennis shoes before I'd ever led anything above 5.6. It's a great first solo, and easy to downclimb. If you fall, even from the top, it's a slider that'll only scuff your skin and ego.
Church Bowl has on of the easiest approaches in the valley.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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