I'm mystified about why this route gets so many beta entries. IMHO, the beta is that you don't need beta. Start at the bottom, and climb to the top - what more is there to say? It's pretty obvious that the size of the crack varies a lot and that you should be somewhat in shape to try it. It is a great route.
How 'bout some beta on routes that really require it, like the first pitch of DNB?
I think this might have been my first 5.10 crack. I failed on it the first time - too spooked by the upper off-size. Over the next ten years I must have climbed it 25 times. Best rock in Yosemite. Imgine Pratt getting to do the 1st ascent of such a beauty! I think Midterm, Gripper and New Dimensions are three of my favorite routes all time.
I used to have a 70m rope that I thought was cut a bit longer than 70m. anyways, we extended the anchor with some cord (about 4 feet) and then we were able to barely top-rope the whole first pitch. don't know if this is useful but if you have a 75m rope you could probably lower off.
This was my first 5.10 lead in April 1974. I was wearing borrowed PAs, a little too big. The rubber seemed Vulcanized compared to EBs, and my feet slipped out of the initial finger crack on my first try. I was wearing a wife-beater, and chalking my right shoulder to get a scum against the right wall did the trick. I rested about five minutes on the ledge below the hand crack above. I had a 9 and a 10 hex, and maybe a big bong, but no hammer. In a crack with very little taper a bong made a pretty good passive pro placement. I love hand cracks. Secret Storm and Henley Quits seemed anticlimactic after Midterm, which was also .10a back then.
A #6 BD fits in the back of the chimney for most of the way. Use a long runner and you can slide it along and everything stays pretty much out of your way as you climb. Of course, always make sure your in solid before sliding a cam.
Visited this puppy on Saturday Dec 5, 2009. We were the ONLY folks at Arch Rock all day, beautiful blue skies! A little cold and windy, with some clouds in the afternoon.
Crux for me was definitely the finger-crack at the start, and then a short endurance race to get a rest after the hands just above that.
I had a #5 Camalot that I placed low in the upper Chimney, more or less to secure the gains made after the transition from wide hands to knee to chimney. It wasn't crucial after getting plugged into the chimney, but nice to have. If you are anal about keeping pro every X feet, you could maybe place another #5 camalot or two.
If you don't bring a #5 Camalot, there is no pro for ~30+ feet up the chimney to the double bolts. If you have good chimney technique (with healthy amount of heel-toe and chicken wings), it was mellow to just inch up and keep resting along the way, no real worries about slipping out. But if you're shaky on narrow chimneys, falling here is undesirable!
Be aware that chockstone with slings and rappel rings 20 feet below the main bolted anchor is moving! Do not rappel from it!
I always was thinking that climbing Midterm with one rope is possible if finish the climb at chockstone. Yesterday I inspected this chockstone and found it dangerously weak
Very enjoyable but polished route. Om the sharp end in 1996. Since the Bird first wrestled with it, traffic has polished the hell out of this thing. Loved the finger locks in the beginning. Hated the OW to chimney. Even with pants, my knees took a beating. Solid gear up to the chimney. Best advice: don't use the slung chockstone.....you're askin' for it!
Climbed this route on 4/2/2005. A classic!
DO NOT pull on the slung chockstone!! I barely tapped my toes on it and it rattled, sending shower of sand down the chimney. For god's sake, DO NOT rap off of it!!!
Anyone ever do this route in the rain? It started raining at the top of the offwidth and the chimney was like wrestling a greased watermelon. Route beta: even when dry the start is pretty slick. Leave your sticky rubber at home-it will be of no use to you here. Suction cup shoes are the ticket here my friend. Good clean fun.
Mid-term is a classic route, but you have to appreciate a little wrassling.
While fingers are technically the crux, most folks have most trouble moving from the OW section into the chimney.
Chimney technique will help you even down low on the climb.
You'll be glad if you wear knee pads on this climb. For god sake, don't do it in shorts!
There used to be a bit of poison oak near the anchors. Be mindful.
Photo: Chris McNamara
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.