Pitches 13 and 14 right below the Thanksgiving ledge as per Pitu's topo posted below are in a huge shady corner and are likely to be quite wet in early season (like right now). Everything else is likely to dry up faster. May is a good month to do this route outside of the fall season since you can stay in the shade until you are WAY up there.
Very good climb. Old bolts were replaced. Most of the belays are fixed with bolts, or pins higher up on the route.
Rack we used wad doubles in standard sizes of camalots from red c3/blue metolius to #2 camalot (yellow). One #3 camalot - blue. Red x4, purple metolius, blue/purple and ywllow/blue metolius offsets. Set of medium to small offset nuts. Worked very well.
Very good route with some heady climbing in places. Nothing crazy though. Felt hard, but quality of rock etc is great!!!
Very good route, ideal for one day of adventure. Clean rock. We did about 12 hours car to car. Its important to start early, in order to climb as much as you can into the shade. The approach to the route can be tricky at the end. We carry 5 liters of water, it was ok.
I feel the second pitch is dangerous, just after the traverse (few moves of 5.10b with really bad pro, with bad fall.) There are other pitches a bit runout but not as bad as the second: the pitch after the downclimb, and two pitches before the tanksgiving ledge (it has a mandatory mantel to reah a bolt).
We get lost on the pitch 10, where the route crosses a white dike. I have drawed the variation that we did (runout variation) and the original route I presume it was the right one.
The exit after the tanksgiving ledge is very obvious, with sunlight.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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