Never Never Land, El Capitan A3 5.7


Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 4.0/5
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3 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 67%  (2)
3 star: 33%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)

Oct 4, 2010 - 09:27am
here is my tr:

the free ratings after timbuktu tower need to be reviewed!!!
they are pretty much complete BS whenever they are given. I have climbed up to 5.11+ in the Valley and didn't see how to free that "5.8" part on the 2nd pitch above timb.tow.
same for the "5.9" after the pendulum.
the first pitch off of the pinacle of hammerdom anchor is the crux, i think. take a stick to bypass a missing rivet. you can't really see the hook to bypass it.
very good tho.
the next A3 pitch is easier. the A3+ pitch is more like A2, with a really dangerous bloc, take care here!!!
for the rest, its a nice route. quite adventuruous, not too clean and many small mistakes in the guidebook make this interesting.

A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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   Sep 11, 2009 - 04:55pm
A TR from this past weekend.

Holly was right about the missing dowel. We avoided it with a high, but positive, hook move on the right arete. There is also a dowel missing on Pitch 10 but there is a bat hook hole that can be used to bypass it, its exciting but it works.

A great route that goes up an awesome line. A little dirty in a few places, but really good, not super obvious climbing. It turned out to be a little slower moving than we expected it to be.

Big Wall climber
El Portal, CA
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   Oct 2, 2007 - 04:27pm
There is a dowel missing (original) and not replaced on pitch 16, on the ramp after the Pinnacle of Hammerdom. Future parties may want to replace this dowel. Also, the last pitch to Thanksgiving Ledge is A1 through the roof and around the roof, (two bomber angles were used and the rest was cams), then in the second half of the pitch, its probably A2, C2F heads, as it is intermittant heads, bomber hooks, and cams, and the heads are all in place as of 10/1/07.

For racking beta, no 1 inch or bigger angles were required of any type (only 1.5 set of offset aliens carried, so this should be accurate pin beta even without tons of offset aliens).

I agree that this route is harder and better than Aquarian Wall, but I liked Dihedral Wall better, and while the nailing (or practically lack thereof) is easier on Dihedral, with it being longer, its not that much easier than NNL. Also, I thought the Shield was significantly harder than NNL.

The portaledge bivy at the Pinnacle of Hammerdom is STELLER and this is not indicated on the Supertopo at all (is noted as a bivy on the Reid topo).

We brought a Friend 6 (pretty equivalent to an old BD #5) and we wished we had a 4.5 cam (or Friend 5).
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 27, 2004 - 07:23pm
I just posted a trip report on the first one ascent of this climb:
El Capitan - Never Never Land A3 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.