Action Potential, Burgundy Spire III 5.10c


Washington Pass, Washington, USA

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Aug 28, 2012 - 01:58pm
A note from first ascentionist Mike Layton:

Mark got the crux on day one when it rained and had to aid. Day two I freed the crux and also linked that pitch with the flakes.

"This was Allenís first new route at Washington Pass and he named it Action Potential because he felt like it was the first of many first ascents to come. Action Potential is one of the only alpine routes that Allen established that wasnít named after a song or album. Ironically, Action Potential is a song that was released after their first ascent."

-Not really, I named the route Action Potential b/c I was studying neurophysiology and like the double entednre. Mad props to Mark Allen in every respect, being my brodiddly and all, but did the author include a mark allen glory hole in the back? (just kidding love you mark). I think it was my 3rd new route there, the previous two with Jordan Peters (and not being that good).

Other than I'd add the bolted multipiches on goat wall, and if you're adding the Liberty Traverse, you should add the Washington Pass Traverse which is the grade 6 Mark and I did which includes the super classic east ridge of silverstar. (and a new rt on Big Kangaroo I'm not supposed to be mentioning).

Also, I don't know if there was a controversy over the slug trail route on sews and it didn't get is an eyesore but i bet it's fun. Finally, I'd at least list some honorable mentions, especially some of the new routes put up on the Silverstar Star Massif and adjecent ridges and mention of some more obsurce stuff (Mt Hardy and the Cave rt across from silverstar, Point 7002, routes on the Snout, and Big Kangaroo). Not more than just a quick sentance, but mention at least.
Burgundy Spire - Action Potential III 5.10c - Washington Pass, Washington, USA. Click to Enlarge
Burgundy Spire Action Potential
Photo: Ian Nicholson
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.